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Build Your Own Pickguard — How It Works
This pickguard is designed specifically for modern Stratocasters® (anything from 1963 onwards) routed to fit Gibson® Mini humbuckers in both the neck and bridge positions.
While not a common spec, the rising popularity of mini humbuckers and Firebird-style pickups has driven demand for this design higher than ever.
Pre-Wired Control Loom
Looks like you're adding a pre-wired control loom to your order!
This effectively turns your pickguard into a loaded plate — a pickguard for a Fender® Stratocaster® supplied with the volume control, tone controls, and switch already installed and wired to match the pickup configuration and control layout you've designed. Simply connect your pickups and output jack, and you're ready to go.
Unlike some of our other loaded assemblies, this option includes the wiring loom only. Knobs, switch tip, pickup covers, and pickups are not supplied unless they have been added separately to your order, and are available under the "Extra parts" menu.
Each control loom is assembled using high-quality components, including CTS 250k vintage audio taper potentiometers as standard, a 3-way or 5-way Oak Grigsby switch (depending on your chosen specification), a 0.022µF Cornell Dubilier tone capacitor, and a Switchcraft mono output jack.
The result is a professionally assembled, reliable wiring harness built to match your exact specification.
A Completely Blank Canvas
Well now… this is where things usually start getting interesting.
It looks like you’re building a completely blank pickguard — no pickup routings, no predefined layouts, no assumptions about what the guitar is supposed to become. Just a clean plate, ready to be turned into whatever project you’ve got rattling around in your head.
For some people, that means recreating an unusual vintage layout that nobody mass-produces. For others, it’s the starting point for experimental electronics, unusual pickup combinations, custom switching systems, or entirely one-off instruments that don’t fit neatly into any existing template.
And honestly? That’s exactly why we offer them.
That said — if you’re actually hoping for us to carry out the pickup routing work for you, don’t panic: you’re not stuck with a blank plate.
The configurator always starts here because it’s the cleanest possible base layout, but if you’d like us to handle the machining side of things, simply head into the customised pickup options and start experimenting. That’s where the fun begins. The system will automatically adapt the plate around your chosen pickup layouts, switching, and controls, while still trying to match your design against existing production templates wherever possible.
A blank guard is really intended for people who want to take on the final fabrication work themselves.
Unlike our routed layouts — where all the positioning, spacing, and production work has already been handled — a blank plate assumes you’ll be carrying out the final machining work personally. In practical terms, that usually means owning (or having access to) a router, guide bushes, suitable cutters, template materials, and at least some experience producing accurate routing templates.
We’re always happy to offer general advice where we can, and we’ve seen enough unusual projects over the years to point people in roughly the right direction. But there is naturally a limit to how much remote guidance we can realistically provide once a project moves fully into one-off custom fabrication territory.
Still, if you’re ordering a completely blank pickguard, there’s a fair chance you already know that.
And if not? Well… this is probably how that journey starts.
The Classic — In Its Purest Form
Looks like you’re building a traditional SSS Stratocaster® setup — and honestly, there’s a good reason this configuration has survived virtually unchanged for decades.
Three single coils are the sound most players picture when they think of a Strat. Bright, expressive, dynamic, and incredibly responsive, an SSS setup has a character that feels alive under your fingers in a way very few guitars do.
Whether it’s glassy clean chords, sharp funky rhythm work, bluesy neck pickup leads, or that unmistakable classic rock bite from the bridge pickup, a proper single coil Stratocaster® covers an enormous amount of ground. It’s one of those rare setups that can sound smooth and delicate one moment, then aggressive and cutting the next, simply depending on how hard you play.
A big part of the magic is how interactive the pickups feel. Pick lightly and everything stays clear, open, and chimey. Dig in harder and the guitar starts to bark back with that unmistakable Strat “snap” that’s been all over legendary recordings for generations.
The in-between positions are a huge part of the appeal too. Those famous “quack” tones from positions 2 and 4 have become a defining part of funk, blues, indie, pop, and countless session recordings over the years.
Simply put: if you want the classic Stratocaster® experience in its purest form, this is it.
The “Voodoo” Strat®
Looks like you’re making a Voodoo mod?
This pickguard follows the standard Stratocaster® layout (what we consider the modern S-S-S configuration), with one deliberate twist — the bridge single coils angle is reversed.
It’s a subtle change on paper, but one with a surprisingly noticeable impact in practice.
This configuration is often referred to as the “voodoo” mod, inspired by the tonal behaviour you get when a right-handed Strat® is flipped and played left-handed. It’s one of those classic guitar quirks that sits somewhere between accident, physics, and a bit of player folklore.
What’s Actually Happening?
On a standard Stratocaster®, the pickups — particularly the bridge — are angled for a very specific reason. The slant helps balance string response across the pickup, keeping the treble strings bright and articulate while allowing the bass strings a little more movement and body.
When you reverse that pickup orientation, you effectively flip that relationship on its head.
Instead of the usual “sparkle on top, fullness underneath” balance, you get a different distribution of emphasis across the strings.
Tonal Impact
The result is not dramatic in an extreme sense, but it is definitely characterful:
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The treble strings take on a slightly fuller, thicker voice
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The bass strings tighten up and become a little more focused
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The overall bridge position feels less spiky and more even across the set
It’s still very much a Strat® bridge pickup — just with a subtly rebalanced feel that changes how it sits under the fingers.
It’s particularly useful for players who find a standard Strat® bridge a little too sharp on the top end, but don’t want to move away from single coils or lose the Strat® switching system.
A Note on Authenticity
There is one important detail worth mentioning.
Most Strat® single coils use staggered pole pieces optimised for right-handed orientation. If you want to get closer to the true “flipped Strat®” behaviour, the most accurate approach is to use a left-handed pickup in the reversed bridge position.
We do supply these specifically for that reason, and they tend to produce the most authentic version of the effect.
It’s a small detail — but on a Strat®, small details are usually where all the character lives.
The “Soapbar Strat®”
This is a Stratocaster® built around a full P90 pickup set — and it’s one of those layouts that sounds simple on paper, but behaves very differently in practice compared to a traditional Strat® or even an HSS build.
On the face of it, the appeal is obvious. If you’ve ever thought “P90s would be cool in a Strat®”, you’re not alone. It’s a really natural idea — take the comfort and familiarity of a Stratocaster®, and drop in pickups that bring more weight, more midrange character, and a slightly rawer edge. It’s an easy way to explore what P90s do without committing to a completely different guitar platform.
And that’s exactly why this configuration exists.
P90s sit in an interesting space electrically and tonally. They are still technically single coils, but they behave more like a hybrid between a Strat® pickup and a humbucker. They’re louder, wider in frequency response, and much more mid-focused than a traditional Strat® pickup.
As a general rule, P90s typically sit around the ~7–8 Henry inductance range, which is a noticeable step up from standard Strat® single coils (around ~2–3 Henries) and even most vintage-style humbuckers (typically ~4–5 Henries). That difference matters, because once you start mixing pickups with that much variation in electrical output and inductance, balance becomes a real design consideration rather than a minor tweak.
In practical terms, that means a P90 will almost always feel louder, thicker, and more forward in the mix than surrounding pickups unless the system is deliberately designed to compensate for it.
That’s part of the character — but it’s also part of the challenge.
What It Feels Like in a Strat®
A P90-loaded Strat® doesn’t behave like a traditional Strat® at all.
The bridge P90 delivers a strong, punchy attack with a wide midrange and a slightly compressed feel under the pick. It’s aggressive without being harsh, and it holds together well under gain in a way that classic Strat® bridge pickups often don’t.
The neck P90 is where things get especially interesting. It’s thick, vocal, and harmonically rich, with a kind of “chewy” midrange that works brilliantly for blues, indie, and driven clean tones. It doesn’t have the glassy top end of a Strat® neck pickup — instead it leans into warmth, sustain, and body.
Across both positions, the overall voice of the guitar shifts away from chime and sparkle, and towards density, presence, and texture.
Why You Don’t See It Everywhere
There are a few practical reasons why P90 Strat® builds aren’t more common, and they’re worth understanding before diving in.
Pickup balance and electrical mismatch
Because this configuration uses a matched dual-P90 setup, pickup balance isn’t really an issue in the way it often is with mixed configurations. Both pickups operate in the same general output and inductance range, so switching between positions feels consistent and intentional rather than uneven or abrupt. The challenges with P90s tend to appear when they’re paired alongside traditional Strat® single coils or lower-output humbuckers — not when the guitar is designed around them from the outset.
Physical constraints in the neck position
The neck pickup area on a Strat® leaves very little margin for error. P90 routing in this position is tight, and the pickguard cutout required is significantly larger and mechanically weaker than a standard Strat® single coil opening. In practice, if a P90-equipped pickguard is going to crack or fail, it’s almost always around the neck pickup area where the stress is highest.
Two different “soapbar” sizes
There are also two common P90 footprint standards:
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Gibson®-style soapbars, with a slightly smaller overall footprint and a more rounded ~7.5 mm corner radius
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Epiphone®-style soapbars, which are fractionally larger and use a tighter ~6 mm corner radius
We route to the Epiphone® standard. Gibson®-sized pickups will physically fit the cavity, but you may see a slight mismatch at the corners due to the difference in radii.
The Bottom Line
A P90 Strat® is not a “Strat with different pickups” in the traditional sense.
It’s a shift in direction — away from glassy single coil clarity and towards something thicker, more mid-focused, and more emotionally raw.
It’s still familiar under the hands, but sonically it sits in its own space entirely. And that’s very much the point.
Full Humbucker Mode — Engage
The configurator has already clocked what’s going on here — this is a Stratocaster® platform being built as a full dual humbucker (HB-HB) layout. Not a variation, not a hybrid experiment — this is a deliberate move away from single coils and into a proper two-humbucker architecture.
That distinction matters, because an HB-HB Strat isn’t just “a Strat with different pickups fitted”. It behaves like a fundamentally different instrument electrically, tonally, and in how it responds under gain.
In practical terms, this configuration is built around two clear voices.
The bridge humbucker is your primary driving force. It delivers tight low-end response, strong midrange focus, and a controlled, saturated character that holds together properly under gain. It’s designed for rhythm authority and lead work that needs to stay present and stable in a mix.
The neck humbucker provides the counterbalance. It’s fuller and smoother, with enough articulation to avoid becoming indistinct, but with the kind of weight and sustain that works naturally for lead lines, warm clean passages, and thick chord voicings.
There’s no expectation here of Strat-style in-between tones or blended “quack” positions — that isn’t the goal of this layout. Instead, you’re working with a deliberately simplified switching structure built around two strong, clearly defined pickup voices.
And that’s really the point of an HB-HB Stratocaster®: it takes a familiar platform and repurposes it as a high-output, two-voice instrument. Comfortable, familiar in the hands — but sonically operating in a completely different space.
The “Mini-Humbucker Strat®”
This is a pickguard for a Stratocaster® built around Gibson®-size mini humbuckers — the same style of pickup found on classic Les Paul® Deluxe models and Firebird® guitars.
It’s a slightly unusual pairing on a Strat® platform, but that’s exactly what makes it interesting. You’re taking the familiar comfort and ergonomics of a Stratocaster®, and dropping in a pickup design that sits tonally between a full-sized humbucker and a strong single coil.
Mini humbuckers are often misunderstood as simply “smaller humbuckers”, but they really have their own voice. Compared to full-sized humbuckers, they’re tighter, brighter, and more focused, with less low-end bloom and a more immediate top-end response. At the same time, they still retain the hum-cancelling behaviour and thickness that separates them from true single coils.
In a Strat® body, that balance becomes particularly effective. The guitar retains clarity and articulation across all positions, but gains a stronger mid presence and a more controlled low end compared to traditional S-S-S layouts.
The bridge mini humbucker delivers a punchy, articulate voice with a fast attack and a slightly compressed feel under gain. It cuts through without becoming overly harsh, making it well suited to rock, indie, and driven blues tones where definition matters as much as aggression.
The neck position is where mini humbuckers really show their character. It’s warm, smooth, and vocal, but still retains enough clarity to avoid the woolliness that can sometimes appear in full-sized humbucker neck positions. Clean tones stay defined, and lead lines carry a slightly hollow, almost vocal quality.
Across both pickups, the overall feel is consistent and balanced. You don’t get the extreme jump in output or tonal shift that can happen with mixed pickup systems — instead, you get a coherent two-voice instrument with a clear identity.
A Strat® fitted with mini humbuckers doesn’t try to imitate single coils or full-sized humbuckers.
It sits in its own space entirely — tighter, cleaner, slightly more refined, and very much focused on clarity with attitude.
A Strat That Thinks It’s a Tele
The configurator has already spotted what’s going on here — this isn’t really behaving like a traditional Stratocaster® setup anymore. The moment a Tele-style bridge pickup appears alongside a stripped-back pickup layout, the system recognises this as a deliberate move towards a Telecaster®-inspired configuration rather than a standard Strat arrangement.
This is a Stratocaster® platform reimagined with a very clear intention — to capture the attitude and voice of a Telecaster®, without giving up the comfort, flexibility, or feel of your existing Stratocaster®.
This is a Stratocaster® platform reimagined with a very clear intention — to capture the attitude and voice of a Telecaster®, without giving up the comfort, layout flexibility, or feel of a Strat-style build.
What you end up with is something that behaves far more like a Telecaster® in spirit, while still retaining the ergonomics and versatility of a Strat body.
The bridge pickup does most of the heavy lifting here — and that’s exactly the point. It delivers that familiar Tele-style snap, bite, and percussive attack that cuts straight through a mix. It’s immediate, unapologetic, and very much built around rhythm work, twang, and articulate lead lines that sit right at the front of the sound.
At the other end, the neck position uses a lipstick-style pickup, bringing in a completely different character. It’s smoother, slightly hollow, and unmistakably vintage in its voice. There’s a soft edge to it that works beautifully for clean passages, chord work, and warmer lead tones, adding contrast without ever feeling out of place against the sharper bridge voice.
The absence of a middle pickup isn’t a limitation here — it’s a design choice. By removing that extra position, the guitar becomes more intentional and more focused. You’re not navigating blend tones or in-between Strat quack sounds; instead, you’re working with two clearly defined voices that each have a strong identity of their own.
What you get overall is a guitar that feels familiar in layout, but much more direct in its tonal behaviour. It’s lean, expressive, and built around classic Fender® DNA — just stripped back and refocused into something closer to a Telecaster® mindset.
If you’ve ever wanted Telecaster® character but preferred Strat comfort and configuration options, this setup sits right in that middle ground without trying to compromise either side.
A Word of Warning
It’s worth adding a small reality check here, because Telecaster® bridge pickups don’t always behave quite the same way once they’re moved out of a traditional Tele® platform.
A big part of what people associate with “Tele bridge tone” isn’t just the pickup itself — it’s the way it’s mounted. In a standard Telecaster®, the bridge pickup sits on a substantial metal bridge plate, and that plate isn’t just structural. It plays a noticeable role in shaping the pickup’s response.
That metal plate tends to reinforce the low-mid presence and tighten up the overall attack, which is a big part of why Tele bridge pickups feel more muscular and punchy than their raw electrical output would suggest.
Once you remove that environment and drop the pickup into a Strat®-style pickguard system, that interaction changes. Without the bridge plate coupling, the pickup loses some of that built-in reinforcement. The result is still very usable, but it’s often a touch more open, slightly leaner, and closer in output to a strong Strat® single coil than people expect when they hear the words “Tele® bridge”.
That doesn’t mean it stops sounding good — it just means it’s not quite the same thing as a Telecaster® bridge pickup in its native habitat. It becomes more of a bright, articulate single coil with Tele®-inspired character, rather than that full, slightly compressed, steel-plate-driven snap you get from a true Tele® bridge assembly.
In short: the idea translates well, but the platform matters. The sound is still there — just in a slightly more refined, slightly delicate way.
Craggy Mod
The Craggy Mod is our take on the classic Fat Strat® idea — stripped back, straightened out, and simplified into a no-nonsense working guitar.
Unlike a traditional HSS Strat®, the Craggy Mod removes the middle pickup entirely. The result is a straightforward HB / Blank / SC layout that avoids unnecessary switching tricks and focuses on giving each pickup a clear, purposeful role.
Rather than trying to reinvent the Strat® layout or force a hybrid guitar to imitate traditional Strat® behaviour, the Craggy Mod leans into what this configuration naturally does well.
For a lot of players, the middle pickup simply doesn’t get used enough to justify its place on the guitar. By removing it entirely, the layout becomes cleaner, simpler, and more focused. Visually, the guitar feels less cluttered, with more space between the pickups and a more purposeful overall look. Functionally, it also opens up some genuinely useful tonal territory — particularly when combining the bridge humbucker and neck single coil together.
That bridge-and-neck pairing has a character all of its own: fuller and wider than a traditional Strat® in-between sound, but still clear and articulate. It’s a combination that often gets overlooked simply because standard Strat® switching doesn’t normally offer it.
The bridge position is unapologetically rock-focused — a humbucker built for punch, aggression, sustain, and drive, with no expectation that it should pretend to be something else.
At the other end, the neck pickup remains a true single coil, delivering clean tones, articulate chords, warmth, and classic Strat® character where it matters most.
And in the middle? Nothing.
That empty space is entirely deliberate.
Removing the middle pickup opens up the picking area, simplifies the controls, reduces clutter under the strings, and gives the guitar a cleaner, more purposeful feel overall. It also avoids overcomplicated wiring in pursuit of sounds the guitar was never truly designed to produce.
This approach keeps the electronics logical, the component choices consistent, and the instrument honest in its identity. It’s not about reinventing the Fat Strat® — it’s about simplifying it, and letting each pickup do exactly what it’s best at.
Refined Power — Classic Looks, Modern Tone
Looks like you’re building an HSS Stratocaster® setup — but with a covered bridge humbucker rather than the more common uncovered style.
Functionally, the idea is exactly the same: you still get the sparkle, clarity, and unmistakable “Strat” character from the neck and middle single coils, combined with the added output and fullness of a bridge humbucker. It’s an incredibly flexible setup that comfortably covers everything from glassy cleans and funky rhythm work right through to heavier rock and high-gain lead tones.
Visually though, a covered humbucker changes the personality of the guitar quite a bit.
Most HSS Stratocaster® builds — particularly modern or “super-Strat” inspired guitars — tend to use uncovered humbuckers with exposed pole pieces for a more aggressive, performance-focused appearance. Covered humbuckers are actually relatively uncommon in traditional HSS layouts, which gives them a slightly more refined and polished look. Depending on the finish and hardware combination, they can lean anything from vintage-inspired to sleek modern custom-shop territory.
It’s also worth noting that covered humbuckers require a slightly different bridge pickup route beneath the pickguard. While uncovered humbuckers typically use the standard rectangular humbucker cutout, covered pickups often need additional clearance. Because of this, HSS pickguards for covered humbuckers are not always directly interchangeable with uncovered versions.
For players wanting the flexibility of an HSS Strat without the more aggressive super-Strat aesthetic, a covered humbucker strikes a really nice balance between classic styling and modern versatility.
A Note on Wiring & Pot Values
One thing worth mentioning with HSS setups is that single coils and humbuckers traditionally prefer different pot values.
Most Stratocaster® single coils are normally paired with 250k pots, which slightly smooth off the top end and help keep brighter pickups sounding balanced. Humbuckers, on the other hand, are usually designed around 500k pots, allowing more high end through and helping the pickup sound open and articulate rather than overly dark.
Because of this, HSS guitars are always a compromise to some extent. Running full 500k controls can sometimes make the single coils sound a little too sharp, while sticking with traditional 250k Strat wiring can shave off slightly too much top end from the humbucker, making it sound a little muddy or compressed compared to how it was intended to perform.
One common workaround is the classic “470k resistor bodge”. This involves wiring a 470k resistor in parallel with the single coils while retaining 500k pots throughout the guitar. In practice, this tricks the single coils into “seeing” a load much closer to a traditional 250k setup whenever they’re selected, while still allowing the bridge humbucker to enjoy the brighter, more open response of a proper 500k circuit. It’s not a perfect solution, but it’s simple, effective, and widely used on HSS builds.
Another important detail is how the bridge humbucker behaves in position 2 alongside the middle pickup.
On a traditional Stratocaster®, positions 2 and 4 work so well because the pickups combine in-phase, producing the famous “quack” tones players know and love. With a full humbucker added into the mix, things become more complicated. If both coils of the humbucker remain active in position 2, you effectively end up with three live coils at once, meaning two of them must share the same phase and polarity relationship. On a guitar, this tends to introduce unwanted phase cancellation, causing the tone to become overly thin and lose much of that classic Strat character.
For this reason, best practice is usually to automatically coil-split the bridge humbucker in position 2, leaving only a single coil active alongside the middle pickup. This restores much of the clarity, snap, and hollow “in-between” tone that makes a Strat feel like a Strat in the first place.
Polarity and winding direction matter too. Ideally, the active humbucker coil used during the split should be reverse polarity/reverse wind relative to the middle pickup. Assuming a standard South Top middle pickup, this normally means selecting a humbucker with the correct magnetic orientation so the split coil remains hum-cancelling and properly in-phase when combined in position 2.
It’s a small technical detail, but getting it right makes a huge difference to how natural and authentic the guitar feels across the full switching range.
Covered HSS & the Fender® 3-Bolt Humbucker
It looks like you’re building an HSS Stratocaster® around Fender®’s 3-screw humbucker mounting system — a slightly oddball specification these days, but one with a surprisingly interesting history behind it.
From a player’s perspective, the idea is simple enough: you still retain all the sparkle, snap, and versatility of a traditional Strat® in the neck and middle positions, but with the added weight, output, and authority of a bridge humbucker when things need to get louder or heavier.
That’s exactly why HSS became such a popular evolution of the Stratocaster®. It keeps the clean clarity and expressive feel people expect from a Strat®, while adding a bridge position capable of handling modern rock, high-gain lead work, heavier rhythm playing, and more saturated amp setups without falling apart.
The bridge humbucker changes the personality of the guitar quite dramatically too. Suddenly, the bridge position stops being the “ice-pick bright” setting many traditional Strat players avoid, and becomes something thicker, tighter, and far more muscular sounding — while still retaining much of the attack and immediacy that makes a Stratocaster® feel alive under your hands.
The 3-screw mounting system itself is a bit of a Fender® curiosity.
Compared to a standard 2-screw humbucker mount, the additional fixing point does genuinely make the pickup feel more stable and mechanically secure, particularly on pickguard-mounted systems. The trade-off is that it limits pickup compatibility quite heavily, because only certain Fender®-style humbuckers and a relatively small number of aftermarket models use the correct mounting pattern.
It’s also worth noting that covered humbuckers are physically slightly larger than uncovered versions. The metal cover itself adds a small amount of extra width and length around the pickup assembly, meaning covered and uncovered 3-bolt humbuckers do not always share exactly the same pickguard cutout dimensions. It’s a small detail, but an important one when working with tighter Fender® routing tolerances.
Historically, Fender®’s relationship with humbuckers has always been slightly unusual.
Their first real flirtation with the concept arrived during the 1970s with the famous Wide Range humbuckers fitted to Telecaster® Deluxe, Custom, and Thinline models. Those pickups aren’t directly relevant to modern HSS conversion guards, but they do show Fender® actively experimenting with ways of introducing humbuckers into what had traditionally been a single-coil world.
The first appearance of a more conventional humbucker in a Stratocaster® arrived in 1984 with the Japanese Squier® ST-552-HH Contemporary Stratocaster®. Despite the later association between Fender® and the 3-bolt system, these early Japanese instruments — along with virtually all subsequent Japanese Fender® and Squier® HSS/HH models — actually used the standard 2-screw humbucker mounting players were already familiar with.
The 3-bolt concept itself wasn’t originally a Fender® invention anyway. Similar ideas had already appeared on earlier Gibson® Sonex and a few Yamaha® models, albeit with slightly different mounting geometry, and Fender® wouldn’t properly begin adopting their own version of the system until the early 1990s on certain USA-made instruments.
By the early 1990s, Fender®’s western-built HSS instruments were already firmly committed to the 3-bolt mounting system, while Fender Japan® continued using more conventional 2-screw humbucker formats on many domestic models. Fender® themselves had effectively introduced western-made humbucker-equipped Stratocaster® models alongside the development of the 3-bolt system, rather than transitioning away from traditional mounting later on. Around 1994, the now-familiar “modern Fender® 3-bolt humbucker” format properly emerged in the form most players now recognise.
Since then, the format has appeared fairly regularly on western-made Fender® guitars, while remaining comparatively rare on Japanese Fender® and Squier® instruments.
It’s a slightly niche specification but for the right build, it’s a really interesting part of Fender® history — and still a very solid choice for an HSS Stratocaster®.
A Note on Wiring & Pot Values
One thing worth mentioning with HSS setups is that single coils and humbuckers traditionally prefer different pot values.
Most Stratocaster® single coils are normally paired with 250k pots, which slightly smooth off the top end and help keep brighter pickups sounding balanced. Humbuckers, on the other hand, are usually designed around 500k pots, allowing more high end through and preventing the pickup from sounding too dark or compressed.
Because of this, HSS guitars are always a compromise to some extent. Running full 500k controls can sometimes make the single coils sound overly sharp, while sticking with traditional 250k Strat wiring can slightly tame the bridge humbucker. There are various ways around this — including resistor tricks, partial-load wiring, or dedicated switching — but it’s something worth being aware of when planning an HSS build.
Another important detail is how the bridge humbucker behaves in position 2 alongside the middle pickup.
On a traditional Stratocaster®, positions 2 and 4 work so well because the pickups combine in-phase, producing the famous “quack” tones players know and love. With a full humbucker added into the mix, things become more complicated. If both coils of the humbucker remain active in position 2, the sound can become overly thick and lose much of that classic Strat character.
For this reason, best practice is usually to automatically coil-split the bridge humbucker in position 2, leaving only a single coil active alongside the middle pickup. This restores much of the clarity, snap, and hollow “in-between” tone that makes a Strat feel like a Strat in the first place.
Polarity and winding direction matter too. Ideally, the active humbucker coil used during the split should be reverse polarity/reverse wind relative to the middle pickup. Assuming a standard South Top middle pickup, this normally means selecting a humbucker with the correct magnetic orientation so the split coil remains hum-cancelling and properly in-phase when combined in position 2.
It’s a small technical detail, but getting it right makes a huge difference to how natural and authentic the guitar feels across the full switching range.
HSS & the Fender® 3-Bolt Humbucker
It looks like you’re building an HSS Stratocaster® around Fender®’s 3-screw humbucker mounting system — a slightly oddball specification these days, but one with a surprisingly interesting history behind it.
From a player’s perspective, the idea is simple enough: you still retain all the sparkle, snap, and versatility of a traditional Strat® in the neck and middle positions, but with the added weight, output, and authority of a bridge humbucker when things need to get louder or heavier.
That’s exactly why HSS became such a popular evolution of the Stratocaster®. It keeps the clean clarity and expressive feel people expect from a Strat®, while adding a bridge position capable of handling modern rock, high-gain lead work, heavier rhythm playing, and more saturated amp setups without falling apart.
The bridge humbucker changes the personality of the guitar quite dramatically too. Suddenly, the bridge position stops being the “ice-pick bright” setting many traditional Strat players avoid, and becomes something thicker, tighter, and far more muscular sounding — while still retaining much of the attack and immediacy that makes a Stratocaster® feel alive under your hands.
The 3-screw mounting system itself is a bit of a Fender® curiosity.
Compared to a standard 2-screw humbucker mount, the additional fixing point does genuinely make the pickup feel more stable and mechanically secure, particularly on pickguard-mounted systems. The trade-off is that it limits pickup compatibility quite heavily, because only certain Fender®-style humbuckers and a relatively small number of aftermarket models use the correct mounting pattern.
Historically, Fender®’s relationship with humbuckers has always been slightly unusual.
Their first real flirtation with the concept arrived during the 1970s with the famous Wide Range humbuckers fitted to Telecaster® Deluxe, Custom, and Thinline models. Those pickups aren’t directly relevant to modern HSS conversion guards, but they do show Fender® actively experimenting with ways of introducing humbuckers into what had traditionally been a single-coil world.
The first appearance of a more conventional humbucker in a Stratocaster®arrived in 1984 with the Japanese Squier® ST-552-HH Contemporary Stratocaster®. Despite the later association between Fender® and the 3-bolt system, these early Japanese instruments — along with virtually all subsequent Japanese Fender® and Squier® HSS/HH models — actually used the standard 2-screw humbucker mounting players were already familiar with.
The 3-bolt concept itself wasn’t originally a Fender® invention anyway. Similar ideas had already appeared on earlier Gibson® Sonex and a few Yamaha ® models, albeit with slightly different mounting geometry, and Fender® wouldn’t properly begin adopting their own version of the system until the early 1990s on certain USA-made instruments.
By the early 1990s, Fender®’s western-built HSS instruments were already firmly committed to the 3-bolt mounting system, while Fender Japan® continued using more conventional 2-screw humbucker formats on many domestic models. Fender® themselves had effectively introduced western-made humbucker-equipped Stratocaster® models alongside the development of the 3-bolt system, rather than transitioning away from traditional mounting later on. Around 1994, the now-familiar “modern Fender® 3-bolt humbucker” format properly emerged in the form most players now recognise.
Since then, the format has appeared fairly regularly on western-made Fender® guitars, while remaining comparatively rare on Japanese Fender® and Squier® instruments.
It’s a slightly niche specification but for the right build, it’s a really interesting part of Fender® history — and still a very solid choice for an HSS Stratocaster®.
A Note on Wiring & Pot Values
One thing worth mentioning with HSS setups is that single coils and humbuckers traditionally prefer different pot values.
Most Stratocaster® single coils are normally paired with 250k pots, which slightly smooth off the top end and help keep brighter pickups sounding balanced. Humbuckers, on the other hand, are usually designed around 500k pots, allowing more high end through and preventing the pickup from sounding too dark or compressed.
Because of this, HSS guitars are always a compromise to some extent. Running full 500k controls can sometimes make the single coils sound overly sharp, while sticking with traditional 250k Strat wiring can slightly tame the bridge humbucker. There are various ways around this — including resistor tricks, partial-load wiring, or dedicated switching — but it’s something worth being aware of when planning an HSS build.
Another important detail is how the bridge humbucker behaves in position 2 alongside the middle pickup.
On a traditional Stratocaster®, positions 2 and 4 work so well because the pickups combine in-phase, producing the famous “quack” tones players know and love. With a full humbucker added into the mix, things become more complicated. If both coils of the humbucker remain active in position 2, the sound can become overly thick and lose much of that classic Strat character.
For this reason, best practice is usually to automatically coil-split the bridge humbucker in position 2, leaving only a single coil active alongside the middle pickup. This restores much of the clarity, snap, and hollow “in-between” tone that makes a Strat feel like a Strat in the first place.
Polarity and winding direction matter too. Ideally, the active humbucker coil used during the split should be reverse polarity/reverse wind relative to the middle pickup. Assuming a standard South Top middle pickup, this normally means selecting a humbucker with the correct magnetic orientation so the split coil remains hum-cancelling and properly in-phase when combined in position 2.
It’s a small technical detail, but getting it right makes a huge difference to how natural and authentic the guitar feels across the full switching range.
Strat Clarity. Humbucker Muscle.
Looks like you’re building an HSS Stratocaster® setup — one of the most versatile pickup combinations ever fitted to a Strat.
By pairing two traditional single coils with a bridge humbucker, the HSS layout keeps everything players love about a classic Stratocaster® while adding extra power, thickness, and punch exactly where you want it most.
The neck and middle pickups still deliver all the familiar Strat character — bright cleans, glassy chords, funky rhythm tones, and those unmistakable in-between “quack” sounds. But switch over to the bridge humbucker and the guitar takes on a completely different personality. Suddenly there’s more output, more midrange, and a fuller, heavier voice that handles driven amps and high gain tones with ease.
That’s what makes HSS such a popular modern setup. It can still sound unmistakably Strat-like when you want sparkle and clarity, but it also gives you the muscle needed for harder rock, heavier blues, modern country, punk, or even metal without needing to swap guitars halfway through a set.
An uncovered bridge humbucker adds a little extra attitude visually too. There’s something about an exposed coil humbucker sitting in a Strat pickguard that immediately gives the guitar a more aggressive, performance-focused feel. It’s a look that became hugely popular during the late ‘70s and ‘80s super-Strat era, and it still looks every bit as purposeful today.
If you want classic Strat versatility with a bit more firepower on tap, HSS is very hard to beat.
A Note on Wiring & Pot Values
One thing worth mentioning with HSS setups is that single coils and humbuckers traditionally prefer different pot values.
Most Stratocaster® single coils are normally paired with 250k pots, which slightly smooth off the top end and help keep brighter pickups sounding balanced. Humbuckers, on the other hand, are usually designed around 500k pots, allowing more high end through and preventing the pickup from sounding too dark or compressed.
Because of this, HSS guitars are always a compromise to some extent. Running full 500k controls can sometimes make the single coils sound overly sharp, while sticking with traditional 250k Strat wiring can slightly tame the bridge humbucker. There are various ways around this — including resistor tricks, partial-load wiring, or dedicated switching — but it’s something worth being aware of when planning an HSS build.
Another important detail is how the bridge humbucker behaves in position 2 alongside the middle pickup.
On a traditional Stratocaster®, positions 2 and 4 work so well because the pickups combine in-phase, producing the famous “quack” tones players know and love. With a full humbucker added into the mix, things become more complicated. If both coils of the humbucker remain active in position 2, the sound can become overly thick and lose much of that classic Strat character.
For this reason, best practice is usually to automatically coil-split the bridge humbucker in position 2, leaving only a single coil active alongside the middle pickup. This restores much of the clarity, snap, and hollow “in-between” tone that makes a Strat feel like a Strat in the first place.
Polarity and winding direction matter too. Ideally, the active humbucker coil used during the split should be reverse polarity/reverse wind relative to the middle pickup. Assuming a standard South Top middle pickup, this normally means selecting a humbucker with the correct magnetic orientation so the split coil remains hum-cancelling and properly in-phase when combined in position 2.
It’s a small technical detail, but getting it right makes a huge difference to how natural and authentic the guitar feels across the full switching range.
Bright, Tight, and Beautifully Unusual
Looks like you’re building a Stratocaster® with dual Filter’Tron® pickups — and that creates something sitting beautifully between a traditional Strat, a classic Gretsch®, and a full-blown custom shop oddity.
A Filter’Tron® setup has a character all of its own. Compared to full-sized humbuckers, they’re brighter, tighter, and far more articulate, with a distinctive snap and sparkle that keeps the guitar feeling lively and responsive. At the same time, they still add more body and fullness than a traditional single coil setup, giving the instrument a really unique tonal balance.
That combination works incredibly well in a Stratocaster® platform.
The bridge pickup delivers punchy attack, crisp highs, and a gritty, snarling edge when pushed, while the neck pickup retains warmth and depth without ever becoming overly woolly or muddy. Together, they produce a tone that feels clear, dynamic, and surprisingly percussive — especially on clean or edge-of-breakup amp settings.
One of the biggest appeals of Filter’Tron® pickups is how much clarity they retain under gain. Chords stay defined, individual notes remain easy to hear, and the guitar never quite loses that fast, immediate response that makes a Strat feel so expressive in the first place.
Tonally, this kind of setup comfortably moves between classic rock, indie, garage, blues, country, rockabilly, surf, alternative, and even heavier styles, all while sounding slightly different from the crowd. There’s a real sense of personality to a Filter’Tron®-equipped Stratocaster® that’s difficult to replicate with more conventional pickup combinations.
Visually, dual Filter’Trons® completely transform the look of the guitar too. The narrower pickup shape, chrome surrounds, and exposed screw poles give the instrument a distinctly boutique or retro-custom appearance — somewhere between vintage Americana and hot-rodded custom build. It’s not a common Strat configuration, which is exactly why so many people love it.
It’s also worth noting that Filter’Tron® pickups use entirely different routing dimensions compared to both standard Strat single coils and conventional humbuckers. Although they are technically humbuckers, their mounting systems and physical footprint are unique, meaning dedicated body routes and pickguard cutouts are required.
If you’re after something that keeps the responsiveness and attack of a Stratocaster® while introducing extra chime, growl, and individuality, a dual Filter’Tron® setup is a seriously inspiring combination.
A Note on Filter’Tron® Surface Mounting
One thing worth being aware of with Filter’Tron® pickups is that mounting them into a Stratocaster® is not always quite as straightforward as fitting traditional Strat single coils or standard humbuckers.
On a normal Stratocaster®, pickup height adjustment is incredibly simple. The pickups are suspended directly from the pickguard using springs or tubing, allowing a huge amount of adjustment travel with very little effort. Most conventional humbuckers work in a very similar way, either mounting directly to the pickguard or to height rings with long adjustment screws.
Filter’Trons® are a little different.
Traditionally, they’re designed as surface-mounted pickups, often fixed directly to the guitar body or attached using dedicated mounting surrounds. Because of this, they typically offer far less adjustment range than players might be used to on a Strat-style guitar. Getting the pickup height exactly right can sometimes require additional spacers, shims, foam supports, custom mounting plates, or careful routing depth adjustments during the build process.
That matters more than many people realise, because Filter’Trons® are particularly sensitive to pickup height. Small adjustments can noticeably affect output, clarity, bass response, and overall attack.
None of this is a problem — it’s simply part of adapting a pickup originally designed for hollow and semi-hollow Gretsch® guitars into a Stratocaster® platform. It just means a little more planning is usually required compared to a standard SSS or HSS setup.
When done properly though, the results are absolutely worth the effort.
Full Custom Build — You’ve Officially Gone Off-Script
Right — this is no longer a standard configuration.
At this point, you’re not selecting from a familiar template or making small adjustments to an existing design. You’ve built something that falls outside our standard production layouts entirely, which means this is now treated as a full custom specification.
That’s not a problem — in fact, it’s exactly what this system is designed for.
When a design reaches this level of complexity or deviation from standard pickguard formats, it moves beyond simple in-house modification and into full custom territory. That means we’re no longer adapting a stock plate; we’re effectively engineering a one-off solution around your exact requirements.
This can include unusual pickup combinations, non-standard switching systems, expanded control layouts, mixed pickup formats, or configurations that simply don’t exist as a factory production model. If it can be made to fit and function cleanly, we’ll build it — but it will be treated as a bespoke job from the ground up.
In practical terms, this means additional time is required for layout planning, routing validation, and production setup. It also means your pickguard is no longer tied to a predefined stock cost structure, because you’re now outside the bounds of mass-produced templates.
None of this is a bad thing — it just means you’ve pushed the design into proper custom-build territory. The upside is total freedom. The trade-off is that it’s no longer a “quick spec change”; it becomes a properly engineered one-off plate.
If your design ended up here by accident… don’t worry. It happens.
If it ended up here on purpose… then you already know exactly what you’re doing.
A Closer Look — And What to Look Out For
Mounting Holes
1954–57 (early vintage / 8-hole system)
Early Stratocaster® pickguards used an 8-hole mounting pattern. These are most commonly found on vintage reissues and represent the earliest production specification before the layout was refined.
Structurally, this design is the least stable of the Strat® family. With fewer mounting points and a tendency toward thinner 1-ply material, these plates are more prone to warping over time, particularly “environmental” movement.
Important note on overlap (reissue era production)
It is worth noting that Fender® began producing reissue-style instruments during the late 1970s and early 1980s, sometimes without explicit distinction in marketing.
As a result, 54–57, 58–62, and 63–70 spec pickguards can appear across 1971–82 instruments, depending on production line and intended specification.
This overlap is further complicated by Fender’s production shift in 1980, when US manufacturing was temporarily reduced and Japanese production increased significantly. Early Japanese-made instruments in particular often mixed specifications, leading to inconsistent pickguard conventions throughout the 1980s and into the early 1990s.
Pickup and Switch Bolts
1954–57
Across all Stratocaster® production from 1954 through to 1982, the switch and single-coil pickup mounting system remained consistent.
All Stratocaster® pickguards in this period were designed to accept countersunk (or oval head) #6 machine screws, used for both pickup and switch mounting points.
This is one of the defining mechanical constants of vintage Strat® construction — regardless of era-specific changes to mounting patterns, pickup spacing, or neck pocket geometry, the hardware interface for pickups and switch assemblies remained countersunk throughout this entire period.
A notable design quirk
One interesting detail in the original Fender® design is that pickup mounting hole spacing in the pickups themselves is slightly narrower than the corresponding spacing in the pickguard.
As a result, when mounted, the countersunk screws typically sit at a slight angle rather than perfectly flush within the pickguard holes.
This creates a small but consistent misalignment that has existed since early production. Whether this was intentional or simply a manufacturing tolerance issue is unclear, but it remains a characteristic feature of vintage-spec Strat® construction.
Humbucker and non–single coil configurations
Historically, Stratocaster® models were produced almost exclusively with three single-coil pickups until the mid-to-late 1980s. As a result, vintage-era pickguard specifications are primarily defined around single-coil mounting conventions.
In the context of the pickguard customiser, this distinction matters as follows:
- 54–82 vintage-spec pickguards
→ Switch and single-coil mounting points use countersunk #6 hardware
This is intentional, reflecting real-world pickup construction standards: while Fender® used countersunk mounting for Strat® single coils and switches during the vintage era, most other pickup types have always relied on dome head or surface-mounted hardware.
Truss Rod Access
1954–57 (early vintage / pre-notched specification)
Early 1950s Stratocaster® models pre-date the introduction of the truss rod access notch system.
Officially, these instruments require neck removal for truss rod adjustment, as the pickguard does not provide access to the heel-adjust mechanism.
In practical terms, however, this was rarely treated as a strict service procedure. Many instruments from this era show evidence of users manually modifying pickguards to create their own access relief, effectively “backdating” the later notch concept before it was standardised.
For this reason, our 1954–57 specification includes a functional access notch, reflecting the way these instruments are commonly encountered in real-world condition, even if it is not strictly period-correct to original factory output.
Edges
1954–57 (1-ply era / early Stratocaster® specification)
Early Stratocaster® pickguards from the 1950s were produced as single-ply (1-ply) sheets, always in white and typically around 1.8mm thickness.
This construction is historically accurate, but structurally fragile. Thin 1-ply material is highly susceptible to warping, cracking, and general distortion over time, particularly under changes in temperature and humidity.
For that reason, we do not currently offer thin 1-ply plates in the pickguard customiser. While they are historically correct, they are not well suited to long-term use.
Instead, we offer a reinforced 1-ply option (approx. 2.3mm thick), which preserves the original flat-face aesthetic and sharp 90-degree edge profile, while significantly improving stability and durability.
We also offer 1950s-spec plates in a range of colours for customers who prioritise aesthetics over strict historical accuracy.
Mounting Holes
1958–62 (transition era / early 11-hole development)
This period marks the transition away from the 8-hole layout toward the now-standard 11-hole mounting system, introduced to improve stability and reduce the warping issues seen in earlier plates.
Ironically, the majority of the layout remains unchanged — 10 of the 11 mounting positions match later 63–modern specifications exactly. The only variation is a single screw position on the upper half, between the neck and middle pickup, which shifts as the pattern is refined.
This era is best understood as a bridging specification between early vintage construction and the fully standardised system that follows.
Important note on overlap (reissue era production)
It is worth noting that Fender® began producing reissue-style instruments during the late 1970s and early 1980s, sometimes without explicit distinction in marketing.
As a result, 54–57, 58–62, and 63–70 spec pickguards can appear across 1971–82 instruments, depending on production line and intended specification.
This overlap is further complicated by Fender’s production shift in 1980, when US manufacturing was temporarily reduced and Japanese production increased significantly. Early Japanese-made instruments in particular often mixed specifications, leading to inconsistent pickguard conventions throughout the 1980s and into the early 1990s.
Pickup and Switch Bolts
1958–62
Across all Stratocaster® production from 1954 through to 1982, the switch and single-coil pickup mounting system remained consistent.
All Stratocaster® pickguards in this period were designed to accept countersunk (or oval head) #6 machine screws, used for both pickup and switch mounting points.
This is one of the defining mechanical constants of vintage Strat® construction — regardless of era-specific changes to mounting patterns, pickup spacing, or neck pocket geometry, the hardware interface for pickups and switch assemblies remained countersunk throughout this entire period.
A notable design quirk
One interesting detail in the original Fender® design is that pickup mounting hole spacing in the pickups themselves is slightly narrower than the corresponding spacing in the pickguard.
As a result, when mounted, the countersunk screws typically sit at a slight angle rather than perfectly flush within the pickguard holes.
This creates a small but consistent misalignment that has existed since early production. Whether this was intentional or simply a manufacturing tolerance issue is unclear, but it remains a characteristic feature of vintage-spec Strat® construction.
Humbucker and non–single coil configurations
Historically, Stratocaster® models were produced almost exclusively with three single-coil pickups until the mid-to-late 1980s. As a result, vintage-era pickguard specifications are primarily defined around single-coil mounting conventions.
In the context of the pickguard customiser, this distinction matters as follows:
- 54–82 vintage-spec pickguards
→ Switch and single-coil mounting points use countersunk #6 hardware
- All non–single coil pickups (e.g. humbuckers, HSS, HSH layouts)
→ Use non-countersunk dome head mounting hardware by default, regardless of pickguard era
This is intentional, reflecting real-world pickup construction standards: while Fender® used countersunk mounting for Strat® single coils and switches during the vintage era, most other pickup types have always relied on dome head or surface-mounted hardware.
Truss Rod Access
1958–62
Across 1958–1970 Stratocaster® production, instruments used a heel-adjust truss rod system, requiring access at the neck pocket end of the neck.
As a result, pickguards from this period feature a truss rod access notch (“half moon” cut-out) in the neck pocket area, allowing adjustment without removing the neck.
In practice, these notches vary slightly in shape and depth depending on production tolerances — ranging from shallow relief cuts to more pronounced semi-circular recesses.
It is also worth noting that this area is not highly delicate in real-world use. Due to the way the neck sits against the pickguard, truss rod adjustment often results in minor contact between tool and pickguard edge. As a result, wear, marking, or “chewing” of the notch area is extremely common on original vintage instruments, and should be considered normaland should generally be considered normal wear.
Edges
1958-Current
From the late 1950s onward, Stratocaster® pickguards transitioned to multi-ply construction, most commonly 3-ply (or 4-ply in tortoiseshell variants).
This became the long-term industry standard and is used across all major Stratocaster® production eras through to the present day.
These pickguards are typically:
- 2.3mm thickness
- Finished with a 45-degree bevelled edge
- Significantly more stable than early 1-ply designs
For customers who prefer a more vintage or stylistically bold look, we also offer 1-ply “thick” variants in later-era specifications. These are not historically period-correct for post-1950s instruments, but are included because they offer a clean, minimalist aesthetic that many builders prefer.
Mounting Holes
1963–70 (classic vintage specification / standardisation point)
By 1963, Fender® finalised what would become the long-term standard: the 11-hole mounting pattern used across all subsequent Stratocaster® designs.
The key change from earlier layouts is the finalisation of screw positioning, including the relocation of the upper horn screw between the neck and middle pickup to its now-familiar position.
This is also the last era in which Strat® pickguards typically include a truss rod access notch in the neck pocket area, reflecting the pre-bullet truss rod construction used at the time.
Important note on overlap (reissue era production)
It is worth noting that Fender® began producing reissue-style instruments during the late 1970s and early 1980s, sometimes without explicit distinction in marketing.
As a result, 54–57, 58–62, and 63–70 spec pickguards can appear across 1971–82 instruments, depending on production line and intended specification.
This overlap is further complicated by Fender’s production shift in 1980, when US manufacturing was temporarily reduced and Japanese production increased significantly. Early Japanese-made instruments in particular often mixed specifications, leading to inconsistent pickguard conventions throughout the 1980s and into the early 1990s.
Pickup and Switch Bolts
1963–70
Across all Stratocaster® production from 1954 through to 1982, the switch and single-coil pickup mounting system remained consistent.
All Stratocaster® pickguards in this period were designed to accept countersunk (or oval head) #6 machine screws, used for both pickup and switch mounting points.
This is one of the defining mechanical constants of vintage Strat® construction — regardless of era-specific changes to mounting patterns, pickup spacing, or neck pocket geometry, the hardware interface for pickups and switch assemblies remained countersunk throughout this entire period.
A notable design quirk
One interesting detail in the original Fender® design is that pickup mounting hole spacing in the pickups themselves is slightly narrower than the corresponding spacing in the pickguard.
As a result, when mounted, the countersunk screws typically sit at a slight angle rather than perfectly flush within the pickguard holes.
This creates a small but consistent misalignment that has existed since early production. Whether this was intentional or simply a manufacturing tolerance issue is unclear, but it remains a characteristic feature of vintage-spec Strat® construction.
Humbucker and non–single coil configurations
Historically, Stratocaster® models were produced almost exclusively with three single-coil pickups until the mid-to-late 1980s. As a result, vintage-era pickguard specifications are primarily defined around single-coil mounting conventions.
In the context of the pickguard customiser, this distinction matters as follows:
- 54–82 vintage-spec pickguards
→ Switch and single-coil mounting points use countersunk #6 hardware
- All non–single coil pickups (e.g. humbuckers, HSS, HSH layouts)
→ Use non-countersunk dome head mounting hardware by default, regardless of pickguard era
This is intentional, reflecting real-world pickup construction standards: while Fender® used countersunk mounting for Strat® single coils and switches during the vintage era, most other pickup types have always relied on dome head or surface-mounted hardware.
Truss Rod Access
1958–70
Across 1958–1970 Stratocaster® production, instruments used a heel-adjust truss rod system, requiring access at the neck pocket end of the neck.
As a result, pickguards from this period feature a truss rod access notch (“half moon” cut-out) in the neck pocket area, allowing adjustment without removing the neck.
In practice, these notches vary slightly in shape and depth depending on production tolerances — ranging from shallow relief cuts to more pronounced semi-circular recesses.
It is also worth noting that this area is not highly delicate in real-world use. Due to the way the neck sits against the pickguard, truss rod adjustment often results in minor contact between tool and pickguard edge. As a result, wear, marking, or “chewing” of the notch area is extremely common on original vintage instruments, and should be considered normaland should generally be considered normal wear.
Edges
1958-Current (3-ply era / standard construction)
From the late 1950s onward, Stratocaster® pickguards transitioned to multi-ply construction, most commonly 3-ply (or 4-ply in tortoiseshell variants).
This became the long-term industry standard and is used across all major Stratocaster® production eras through to the present day.
These pickguards are typically:
- 2.3mm thickness
- Finished with a 45-degree bevelled edge
- Significantly more stable than early 1-ply designs
For customers who prefer a more vintage or stylistically bold look, we also offer 1-ply “thick” variants in later-era specifications. These are not historically period-correct for post-1950s instruments, but are included because they offer a clean, minimalist aesthetic that many builders prefer.
Mounting Holes
1971–82 (CBS-era production refinements)
In functional terms, the ’71–82 pickguard is mechanically identical to the ’63–70 specification. The mounting pattern remains unchanged and fully interchangeable.
The primary difference is structural clearance: with the introduction of the bullet truss rod adjustment at the headstock, the traditional truss rod access notch in the neck pocket was no longer required and was removed from production specs.
This era also marks the end of widespread use of countersunk hardware on switch and pickup mounting points, as production methods began transitioning toward more modern assembly practices.
Important note on overlap (reissue era production)
It is worth noting that Fender® began producing reissue-style instruments during the late 1970s and early 1980s, sometimes without explicit distinction in marketing.
As a result, 54–57, 58–62, and 63–70 spec pickguards can appear across 1971–82 instruments, depending on production line and intended specification.
This overlap is further complicated by Fender’s production shift in 1980, when US manufacturing was temporarily reduced and Japanese production increased significantly. Early Japanese-made instruments in particular often mixed specifications, leading to inconsistent pickguard conventions throughout the 1980s and into the early 1990s.
Pickup and Switch Bolts
1971–82
Across all Stratocaster® production from 1954 through to 1982, the switch and single-coil pickup mounting system remained consistent.
All Stratocaster® pickguards in this period were designed to accept countersunk (or oval head) #6 machine screws, used for both pickup and switch mounting points.
This is one of the defining mechanical constants of vintage Strat® construction — regardless of era-specific changes to mounting patterns, pickup spacing, or neck pocket geometry, the hardware interface for pickups and switch assemblies remained countersunk throughout this entire period.
A notable design quirk
One interesting detail in the original Fender® design is that pickup mounting hole spacing in the pickups themselves is slightly narrower than the corresponding spacing in the pickguard.
As a result, when mounted, the countersunk screws typically sit at a slight angle rather than perfectly flush within the pickguard holes.
This creates a small but consistent misalignment that has existed since early production. Whether this was intentional or simply a manufacturing tolerance issue is unclear, but it remains a characteristic feature of vintage-spec Strat® construction.
Humbucker and non–single coil configurations
Historically, Stratocaster® models were produced almost exclusively with three single-coil pickups until the mid-to-late 1980s. As a result, vintage-era pickguard specifications are primarily defined around single-coil mounting conventions.
In the context of the pickguard customiser, this distinction matters as follows:
- All non–single coil pickups (e.g. humbuckers, HSS, HSH layouts)
→ Use non-countersunk dome head mounting hardware by default, regardless of pickguard era
This is intentional, reflecting real-world pickup construction standards: while Fender® used countersunk mounting for Strat® single coils and switches during the vintage era, most other pickup types have always relied on dome head or surface-mounted hardware.
Truss Rod Access
1971–83–Current
From 1971 onward, Fender® transitioned the Stratocaster® truss rod adjustment point from the neck heel to the headstock (bullet-style adjustment).
This change eliminated the need for a pickguard access notch entirely, and the feature was removed from standard production specifications.
As a result, all 1971–present Stratocaster® pickguards use a closed neck pocket profile, with no truss rod relief cut required.
This design has remained consistent through to modern production, and is only reintroduced on specific vintage reissue models where historical accuracy is required.
Edges
1958-Current (3-ply era / standard construction)
From the late 1950s onward, Stratocaster® pickguards transitioned to multi-ply construction, most commonly 3-ply (or 4-ply in tortoiseshell variants).
This became the long-term industry standard and is used across all major Stratocaster® production eras through to the present day.
These pickguards are typically:
- 2.3mm thickness
- Finished with a 45-degree bevelled edge
- Significantly more stable than early 1-ply designs
For customers who prefer a more vintage or stylistically bold look, we also offer 1-ply “thick” variants in later-era specifications. These are not historically period-correct for post-1950s instruments, but are included because they offer a clean, minimalist aesthetic that many builders prefer.
Mounting Holes
1983–Current (modern standard specification)
This is the current industry standard Stratocaster® pickguard layout, and is fully interchangeable with all 63–82 mounting systems.
In practical terms, the mounting geometry is identical to both the 63–70 and 71–82 specifications. The primary difference lies in hardware mounting and access rather than a change in the plates mounting screw layout.
Modern production typically uses non-countersunk switch and pickup mounting holes, reflecting the adoption of dome-head screw hardware across Fender® manufacturing.
For all intents and purposes, a 63-spec, 71-spec, and modern Strat® pickguard are functionally interchangeable in terms of mounting.
Pickup and Switch Bolts
1983–Current (modern specification)
From 1983 onward, Fender® transitioned away from countersunk hardware for switch and pickup mounting.
Modern Stratocaster® pickguards instead use non-countersunk (dome head) screw mounting, reflecting a broader shift in manufacturing practices and hardware standardisation.
This change affects only the mounting hardware style — not the overall pickguard geometry — and modern plates remain fully compatible with earlier 11-hole mounting systems.
Humbucker and non–single coil configurations
Historically, Stratocaster® models were produced almost exclusively with three single-coil pickups until the mid-to-late 1980s. As a result, vintage-era pickguard specifications are primarily defined around single-coil mounting conventions.
In the context of the pickguard customiser, this distinction matters as follows:
- All non–single coil pickups (e.g. humbuckers, HSS, HSH layouts)
→ Use non-countersunk dome head mounting hardware by default, regardless of pickguard era
This is intentional, reflecting real-world pickup construction standards: while Fender® used countersunk mounting for Strat® single coils and switches during the vintage era, most other pickup types have always relied on dome head or surface-mounted hardware.
Truss Rod Access
1983–Current (modern specification)
From 1971 onward, Fender® transitioned the Stratocaster® truss rod adjustment point from the neck heel to the headstock (bullet-style adjustment).
This change eliminated the need for a pickguard access notch entirely, and the feature was removed from standard production specifications.
As a result, all 1971–present Stratocaster® pickguards use a closed neck pocket profile, with no truss rod relief cut required.
This design has remained consistent through to modern production, and is only reintroduced on specific vintage reissue models where historical accuracy is required.
Edges
1958-Current (3-ply era / standard construction)
From the late 1950s onward, Stratocaster® pickguards transitioned to multi-ply construction, most commonly 3-ply (or 4-ply in tortoiseshell variants).
This became the long-term industry standard and is used across all major Stratocaster® production eras through to the present day.
These pickguards are typically:
- 2.3mm thickness
- Finished with a 45-degree bevelled edge
- Significantly more stable than early 1-ply designs
For customers who prefer a more vintage or stylistically bold look, we also offer 1-ply “thick” variants in later-era specifications. These are not historically period-correct for post-1950s instruments, but are included because they offer a clean, minimalist aesthetic that many builders prefer.
Fender®, Squier®, Stratocaster® and Strat® are registered trademarks of Fender Musical Instruments Corporation and Axesrus® has no affiliation with FMIC
A few years ago, we stepped away from offering a full “custom pickguard” service. In theory it sounded great — in practice, most requests weren’t for completely new shapes or one-off designs. The vast majority were simply variations of standard Stratocaster® layouts with different controls, pickup combinations, or mounting details.
So instead of running a traditional custom shop, we built something more practical: a modular pickguard system.
Rather than manufacturing every plate entirely from scratch, we now work from a large range of pre-produced specifications and semi-finished stock, allowing us to configure layouts in-house with faster turnaround times, greater consistency, and significantly lower costs than true one-off production.
This approach gives us a huge amount of flexibility while still keeping the process reliable and repeatable.
What Is Customisable?
The customiser allows us to configure a wide range of features, including:
- Pickup layouts and routing
- Control layouts and hole drilling
- Vintage and modern mounting specifications
- Switch slot configurations
- Historic and modern hardware styles
- Multiple material and ply constructions
In many cases, plates may be modified in-house to suit the selected specification — including drilling control holes, machining pickup openings, or adjusting switch layouts where required.
How Additional Machining Costs Work
One of the biggest advantages of the pickguard customiser is that it doesn’t automatically treat every configuration as a full custom build.
The system analyses the specification you’ve designed and compares it against our existing stock and semi-finished inventory before determining whether any additional machining is actually required.
In simple terms:
if your chosen configuration already exists as a standard production plate, you’ll simply pay the normal stock price — even if you created it through the customiser.
This is particularly important because many “custom” configurations aren’t really custom at all. Fender® has produced a huge range of layouts over the years, and once colour, era, routing style, and hardware combinations are accounted for, a surprising number of customer builds already exist within standard manufacturing specs.
Intelligent Stock Matching
When a configuration does require modification, the system works progressively to minimise unnecessary machining and keep costs as low as possible.
Rather than immediately treating the order as a fully bespoke build, the customiser attempts to identify:
- existing stock plates that already match the required specification
- semi-finished plates that can be modified with minimal work
- or the closest compatible routing platform available
Only once those options are exhausted does the system fall back to producing the plate from a blank.
This means the pricing reflects the actual manufacturing work required, rather than simply applying a blanket “custom charge” to every non-standard layout.
Why Prices May Vary Between Colours or Materials
Because the system works from real inventory and routing compatibility, pricing can occasionally vary between otherwise identical specifications.
For example:
- a particular configuration in one colour may already exist as a stock or semi-finished plate requiring little to no modification
- while the same specification in another material or colour may require substantially more machining work from a blank
Although this can occasionally look inconsistent at first glance, it ensures customers are only charged for the work genuinely required to produce their chosen specification.
In practice, it’s a much fairer system than applying fixed “custom shop” pricing across the board.
Pot Hole Drilling
Control hole drilling is always included free of charge.
Changing pot values, switch sizes, or control layouts typically involves minimal additional work during production, so these adjustments are treated as part of the normal configuration process wherever possible.
Available Hole Sizes
We currently offer four standard drilled hole sizes:
- 10 mm → Standard control pots
- 8 mm → "metric/undersized" control pots
- ½″ → Full-size toggle switches
- ¼″ → Mini-toggle switches
Hole positions remain fixed to the selected layout specification; only the diameter changes depending on the selected hardware.
So — with all that in mind — let’s walk through how to understand where the holes go and how to get the layout you want.
This is probably easier with a diagram — but be warned — while it makes sense, it’s also fairly cluttered.
Diagram Key
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10 mm Pot Holes: White
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8 mm Pot Holes:I’ve intentionally left these off the diagram for clarity, but their positions mirror the 10mm holes.
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¼" Mini Switch Holes: Pink
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½" Toggle Switch Holes: Grey
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UFO Knobs (~1" diameter) and Switch Tips (9 mm over the slot): Green
The system is smart enough to prevent most overlap issues, but some combinations sneak through. For example, fitting a 10 mm pot in the TD position alongside any switch will get really tight once the knob is installed.
Just for a little clarity, heres a quick break down of the hole sizes, and what they're designed for.
10mm Hole
This is what I’d consider “the standard” size — designed specifically around CTS pots, which use a 3/8" thread (just under 10mm). Interestingly, the industry has largely standardised on 10mm mounting holes even though M8 threaded pots are also very common.
Thankfully, M8 pots fit perfectly well into a 10mm hole, as the dress washer easily covers the clearance and clamps securely against the pickguard.
You can also fit a jack socket into a 10mm hole if you’re so inclined, as most use either M10 or 3/8" threads too. It’s not especially common, but it was briefly used on the Fender Stratocaster during the “Dan Smith” era.
8mm Hole
Once very common — and occasionally a bit of a pain when upgrading electronics — 8mm pot holes are designed for metric pots with M8 threads.
The pots themselves are still extremely common, but these days you’ll usually find them fitted into 10mm holes on both control plates and pickguards. Personally, I’d do the same and not worry about it, as the dress washer comfortably covers the extra clearance.
That said, if you’ve got your heart set on everything being a perfect snug fit, we do still offer 8mm pot holes on request.
1/2" Hole
This one can be a little confusing because we’re still technically talking about “pot holes” — even though a 1/2" hole is really intended for a switch.
Specifically, it’s designed to accept a full-sized toggle switch, typically with either a 1/2" thread (such as a Switchcraft switch) or an M12 thread (used by Alpha and most other manufacturers).
It’s also worth remembering that a 1/2" hole will still happily accept a CTS pot, in much the same way that a 10mm hole will accept an M8 metric pot. So if you’re experimenting with a switch layout and it doesn’t quite work out, it’s not necessarily a complete disaster — you can usually repurpose the hole without issue.
1/4" hole
Not my favourite addition, admittedly — but it does come up from time to time.
1/4" holes are intended for mini switches, and there’s honestly not a lot else you can realistically do with them afterward. The actual hole size is around 6.5mm, which makes it smaller than even the smallest common pot threads.
In other words: if you’re adding a mini switch, make sure you actually want a mini switch!
No Hole
At the risk of stating the obvious: “No Hole” means exactly that — no hole at all.
If you simply don’t want a control or switch position drilled where one would normally appear, this is the option to choose.
And remember: it’s always far easier to drill a hole later than it is to undrill one!
Additional Routing, Combos, and Weird Stuff!
There are a few options within the control layout customisation, which are either combiantions, extra routing or options that neccesitate extra routing, and as such, extra cost. I'll outline those here.
Lever Switch in Middle Tone pot Position
I, genuinely, love this one - its not REALLY a replacement for a tone pot, its more the option to reposition the main lever switch so its down there and out of the way. It looks weird, but its great if your a bit of a "wild strummer" who always ends up in bridge pickup.
You could, if your so inclined, actually have this routed into a plate that already has a Lever switch in the standard position to give you a world of secondary switching options too! Would I suggest it? Not in a million years! But you could!
This is an additional routing job, so is chargable (however, the Lever switch, in the
"switch" position, is not... the blank plates exist with and without that switch slot, but there are no blanks with the "mid tone" Lever switch.
Volume + 6mm Mini Switch Hole
Nothing overly flash, and a pretty easy job from our point of view (so no extra cost involved) - the volume options under the "combination" header, are 10mm holes (for the pot) plus a 6mm hole for a mini switch. You can have this combo in either "the ‘IBZ’ layout", with the mini toggle hole between the IBZ Volume pot hole and the Standard Middle Tone hole.
Or, you can have the Standard Volume pot hole, with the mini toggle hole "between" the standard neck tone hole and volume, and inclined a little towards the Standard Switch position.
A few gripes
I dont hate this ... but if you've ever tried fitting a mini switch to a pickguard, you pretty quickly see the problem. Mini Switches are pretty "tall" and they do, ultimately, take up a little bit of space - with the IBZ Combo, your losing alot of "hand room" between knobs, and with the Standard Volume Combo, your putting a fairly big obstacle between you and your lever switch.
Personally, I’ve never been especially fond of the Standard version.
A better way! the "Mini Slot"
As with many things, we've got David Gilmour to thank for this (i think!) - he (or his tech... or Fender) devised a clever little bracket that allowed a mini switch to be "sunk" so only the tip was visible above the pickguard. This, and this alone, pretty much saves the idea of the mini switch in the Standard volume position, the switch is in a sensible place, but its so small that it cant get in the way.
The only real problem, is that it requires a bracket (theres a few versions out there, and, we dont make them, and it is not supplied with this pickguard)
and the "slot" isn't a simple drill job, its jig and router work, which we have to charge for.
How It works
The Bracket mounts "over" the volume and tone pots, and then "dog legs" down, to where the switch mounts.This means the switches mounts are hidden, and the majority of the "lever arm" is under the pickguard, with only the tip visible.
Strictly speaking, you NEED standard volume and standard neck tone holes, but you could, potentially, get away with just one pot - I'm not sure i'd suggest it, but just in case, we've not tied the "combo" to the neck tone pot, incase you want to try.
Another angle
Just for completeness sake, the bracket from top down, which give a better idea of where the switch itself sits in relation to the UFO knobs when fitted to the plate.
"No Switch"
Without wanting to state the obvious, No switch means No switch in the usual position - I wouldn't suggest it unless you dont need a switch (1 pickup setups) or, your've specced up a different way to switch between pickups.
Toggle Switch
I'm not a massive fan pesonally, because, frankly, they're quite limited for the most part - only being useful for 2 pickup setups. There do exist, some clever "mutli-direction" toggles, such as the NSF Freeway switch, which give more options, but, I cant say i'm massively fond of them. They're fiddly to use day to day, and a pain to wire. Still, nothing inherently wrong with a toggle switch on a Stratocaster i suppose.
CHARV Angle Lever
This one's a little bit "no ones asked for it.... but we can!" - rather than the standard Lever switch angle, you can have it at the same angle as a Charvel So-Cal (post 2016 version!) - its a little flatter then normal, and a little harder to accidentally knock back into bridge position.
Standard Angle Lever
This "the norm" when it comes to a Stratocaster Switch. As mentioned in the main write up, the counter sinks are tied to historic accuracy, so, pre 83 plates, have counter sunk holes, and modern plates have "non counter sunk".
And finally: once drilled — whether to a standard hole plan or something a little more wild and wonderful — pickguards fall under our Custom work policy.
As always, if you’ve got any questions whatsoever, please feel free to get in touch and we’ll happily talk through the finer details of your proposed build
Pickups
Choose from a range of pickup styles to suit your build.
Humbuckers
The HB Strat® pickguards are so common these days that most players don’t even think of them as a “mod” anymore. Still, it’s worth approaching humbucker routes with the mindset that this isn’t the standard setup—mainly because there are a few variations that can catch you out.
By default, we offer the bridge position routed for either an Uncovered or Covered humbucker, included at no extra cost.
Prefer a 3-screw mount humbucker? We can do that too. This option requires routing the pickguard to order, which involves extra work and carries a small additional charge.
Uncovered Humbucker
This is what I’d call the “standard” humbucker option for a Stratocaster®. Technically, it’s not truly standard—Fender® usually use a 3-screw mount humbucker—but most aftermarket pickups aren’t built that way, so this layout has become the norm.
The pickup route has rounded corners that follow the shape of the bobbins, giving a clean and intentional look.
It’s cut slightly oversized to protect the coils and ensure compatibility with:
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Standard uncovered humbuckers
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49.2mm, 50mm, and 52mm spaced pickups
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Trembucker® models (which are slightly larger again)
Covered Humbucker
Covered humbuckers aren’t actually that common on the Stratocaster®. Maybe it’s the odd mix of a metal-covered pickup next to plastic single coils—but for whatever reason, most aftermarket plates default to a covered bridge route.
The covered route is cut tight to the pickup cover, leaving no gaps or wiggle room. Since covered humbuckers are slightly larger than uncovered ones, the sizing of this route is specific to them.
This is a humbucker-only route—you won’t be able to fit a covered Trembucker® here (though those are rare anyway, since they don’t suit many guitars).
3-Screw Mount
I’ve always loved the Fender® 3-screw mount humbucker. It’s rock solid, looks great, and gives you far more control over the pickup angle than the usual 2-screw mount. In my opinion, it’s simply a better design.
The downside is that it’s almost exclusive to Fender® pickups—or anyone using our conversion plates.
The route itself is much like the uncovered humbucker cavity: slightly oversized, with rounded corners to match the bobbins. The key difference is the two screw holes on the bass side instead of one, which set it apart from the more common layout.
Since this has to be routed to order, there’s a small extra charge. But if you’re into Fender’s system, it’s absolutely worth it.
MisMatch
It’s actually pretty common—especially on non-Fender® guitars—to mismatch humbuckers and routes. You can usually get away with it, but there are a few rules of thumb worth knowing:
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Uncovered humbuckers will fit into covered routes. They’ll work fine, though you’ll see a small gap around the pickup.
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Fender® 3-screw mount humbuckers fit into both uncovered and covered routes, since they still retain the central mounting hole.
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Covered humbuckers will not fit into uncovered or 3-screw mount routes—the route simply isn’t wide enough.
When in doubt, a covered route is the most universal option.
Covered vs. Uncovered Position
The position of a covered humbucker route isn’t the same as an uncovered one.
Why? Honestly, no idea. My best guess is that it goes back to the early days—before Fender® officially offered HB Bridge Strat® models—when the first templates were a little… creative.
Here’s what you need to know:
On genuine Fender® bodies, this usually isn’t an issue—the pickup cavities are routed generously. But on third-party bodies (where routing tends to be tighter), it’s definitely worth checking the available space before ordering.
Also, keep in mind: this only applies to the bridge humbucker. All other pickups—including neck humbuckers—sit in the same position, regardless of covered or uncovered.
Exceptions: Some Covered Plates Use 14mm Spacing
Because nothing’s ever simple—Fender® have recently started offering more models with covered humbuckers, and they seem to be moving toward standardising both covered and uncovered bridge routes at around 14–15mm from the trem cavity.
So, in a few cases, we’re playing catch-up.
To avoid headaches with the pickguard customiser, the safest rule is:
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Assume all covered bridge humbuckers use the 10mm gap.
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If your donor plate turns out to use the newer 14–15mm spacing, we’ll spot it during processing and reach out before cutting.
Nighthawk Humbucker
Gibson’s short-lived “super strat killer” from the ’90s, the Nighthawk, came with a pretty unusual pickup layout: a slanted bridge humbucker, a single-coil middle, and a Nighthawk mini-humbucker at the neck. And if you know the guitar, you’ll understand why those quotation marks are there—it was a bit of a dog’s dinner overall, and never really gained much popularity.
That said, the bridge pickup design had real potential that, in my opinion, was never fully explored. The slanted mounting gave the low strings more bass response, which made the guitar feel more aggressive and better balanced.
I’ve been experimenting with this setup on my Strat®, running an Axesrus® Heretic humbucker in the bridge. It’s… interesting. For me, it tips a little too far into the low end (though the Heretic is a pretty hefty pickup to begin with). Not for every situation, but definitely an option if you’re looking for something a bit different with more tonal variety.
If you’re curious about exploring something a little out of the ordinary, I’d definitely recommend giving the Heretic humbuckers a try—they’re surprisingly versatile and open up some tonal possibilities you won’t get from standard pickups.
A What?!
Okay, this is a bit of an indulgence, to be honest. I’ve always wanted a Gibson® Nighthawk—I have no idea why, and I can probably count on one hand the times I’ve actually been in the same room as one. But it’s one of those guitars that always seemed really well thought out to me, and the GAS (Guitar Acquisition Syndrome) just won’t go away.
They’re rare and expensive, and since I like a Strat®, this seemed like the next best option: routing a Nighthawk-style pickup into a pickguard to see what all the fuss is about.
The Route of All Evil
As with many of these “oddball” pickup routes, you’ll probably need to re-route your guitar to accommodate them. The Nighthawk pickup (currently only available for the bridge position) takes up more space under the hood than a standard humbucker.
It’s quite a refined design—not a homebrew or Billy-Joe Armstrong-style mod—so not only will you need to modify the guitar body (unless you’re lucky enough to have a “swimming pool” route), but you’ll also need a specific Nighthawk pickup with the slanted base and all.
Not Exactly "F-Spaced"
This is where I’m reminded why I was in the bottom set in maths—and why Pythagoras was more than just a clubbing hotspot in the 2000s!
Even with an F-spaced humbucker (assuming you’ve converted it to a “Nighthawk” using the correct base), the poles won’t perfectly align with the strings. It doesn’t really affect the pickup’s function, but, well… it does look a bit off.
Wide Range Humbucker
Ah, the Wide Range Tele humbucker — the legendary “big daft thing” from the ’70s Telecaster Deluxe. They’ve got a cult following for a reason: massive tone, fat single-coil bite, and a sparkle all of their own. But, if you’re thinking of dropping one into a Strat, there’s a bit to know.
The Merits
These pickups are big, beefy, and full of character. Compared to a standard Strat humbucker or single coil, they’ve got:
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Thick, rounded lows that still articulate well.
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Dynamic response that’s surprisingly Strat-friendly — they clean up nicely and take overdrive without losing detail.
In short: they give you that wide, punchy humbucker sound without going all muffled like a standard Gibson-style humbucker.
The Drawbacks
Here’s only really the one catch: Wide Range humbuckers are huge. Their covers are longer and wider then a "normal" humbucker!
Sound Expectations
If you can make it fit, expect:
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A bigger, fatter bridge tone than any other "Fender style" pickup
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Sparkle and clarity that keeps it from sounding muddy.
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A unique voice that’s somewhere between Tele bite and humbucker warmth — really fun for blues, rock, and even some jazz.
Sensible Verdict
Fitting a Wide Range Tele into a Strat is absolutely possible, but it’s a project — you’re not just swapping a pickup. Expect routing a slightly fiddlier setup. But if you love that big, jangly-yet-fat tone, it’s a mod worth doing.
A Potted History
The original Wide Range humbuckers came out in the mid-1970s for the Telecaster Deluxe and Custom — the real deal, with CuNiFe (copper, nickel, iron) magnets that gave them that bright, snappy bite without losing warmth. They were big, jangly, and instantly recognisable.
Fast forward to 2004: Fender tried a comeback, but it was basically a normal humbucker in a giant cover — output was higher, tone was muddier, and it really didn’t capture the magic of the originals. Fans were underwhelmed.
More recently, Fender and other makers have flirted with “historic recreation” versions. Some nail the original CuNiFe vibe, some fall somewhere in-between — the “are they/aren’t they?” debate still rages. But the idea is the same: try to get that vintage Tele Deluxe humbucker tone in a modern package.
The nitty-gritty: Wide Range humbuckers mount with four height-adjustment screws, and the covers and baseplates are much bigger than a standard humbucker to accommodate the larger bobbins. This was originally a deliberate “thing” to differentiate them from Gibson humbuckers — and it’s part of what gives them a sound all their own.
Volume Pot Problem
Heads up — if you’re fitting a Wide Range humbucker into a Strat pickguard, the bridge pickup in the standard volume pot position just doesn’t work.
The pickup is bigger than a standard Strat humbucker, and if you try to keep the pot in its usual spot, the knob physically collides with the pickup cover. Turn the knob, and it hits the edge — not ideal.
The simple fix? Move the volume pot slightly further away from the pickup. It’s a small tweak that keeps everything functional, and stops you from fighting a knob that won’t turn and a pickup you can’t access properly.
Neck? No Chance!
Just to be clear — you cannot fit a Wide Range humbucker in the Strat neck slot.
It’s nothing to do with screws or mounting; the problem is geometry. The base of the pickup is so large that, if you try to place it where it would sit relative to the bridge, it extends beyond the edge of the pickguard. There’s simply no way to make it fit without serious custom work — and even then, it’s not pretty or practical.
So, while it’s fantastic in the bridge (or maybe middle with some creativity), the neck slot is a no-go. Physics wins every time.
P90s
Many of us have probably had that thought at some point: “Wouldn’t P90s be cool?!” The idea of a P90-loaded Stratocaster® is seriously tempting, especially if you don’t want to jump straight into a big hollow-body or some other oddball guitar. It’s a fun way to explore what P90s are all about without stepping too far outside your comfort zone.
I’m all for it — but go in with your eyes wide open. Installing P90s is absolutely doable, but there’s a reason it isn’t all that common. They present a few unique challenges, especially when it comes to balancing them with other pickups in the guitar.
Electrically speaking, P90s are loud. They induce around 7–8 Henries of inductance, which is a significant jump compared to other pickups. As a general rule, it’s best to keep the difference between pickups around 2 Henries or less for them to balance well. This is particularly important if the P90 is in the bridge position, and even more so if it’s in the neck.
To put it in context, most vintage-style humbuckers are around 4–5 Henries, and most standard single coils (Strat, Tele, etc.) are around 3 Henries. Mixing a P90 with either of these — whether in the same guitar or in the same circuit — will almost always result in a noticeable volume mismatch.
It Doesn't Fit In The Neck
The neck slot is very close to the edge of the pickup. That means your routing in the guitar needs to be extremely precise — there’s very little wiggle room.
On top of that, the large cutout in the pickguard for the P90 significantly weakens the surrounding plastic. I can pretty much guarantee: if it’s going to crack or break, it’ll almost always happen right around the neck P90.
Volume Pot Problem
As a bridge pickup, the route fits without major issues — but it will interfere with a standard-position volume pot. The site’s smart enough to catch that and adjust the plate accordingly.
That said, please don’t be tempted to spec a plate with an Offset 1 volume pot and two tone pots — positionally, it’s a nightmare to work with, and it’ll fight you the whole way.
There Are 2 Different Sizes
This isn’t (weirdly) widely known — but soap bar P90s actually come in two different “sizes.” I go into more depth in the Pickups section, but in short: there are Epiphone®-sized and Gibson®-sized soap bar P90s.
They’re slightly different overall dimensions — Gibson® uses a slightly smaller footprint, but it’s only marginal. The main difference is in the corner radii of the covers:
We route to the Epiphone® size and shape, so Gibson®-sized P90s will technically fit the route — but there’ll be a mismatch at the corners due to the larger radii.
Epiphone Size
I’ve spoken to a few people over the years — most of them pickup manufacturers! — and this isn’t as widely known as you might think. Presumably that’s because very few people ever bother to replace Gibson® P90s.
Gibson-sized P90s will technically fit into the Epiphone route, but just to show the difference: here’s an Epiphone P90 (at least, the cover) in our P90 route. It’s a nice fit; the radius matches in the corners, and there’s a little wiggle room to get the pickup in there and centred.
Remember, as with all surface-mounting pickups, do as much as you can to get the pickup square to the hole before committing to mounting. Unlike “hanging” pickups (humbuckers and single coils), a P90 won’t “self-centre” in the route, so it’s very possible you’ll end up off-centre if you’re not careful.
Epiphone Radii
Just a quick close-up on those radii — see how the curve of the route matches up nicely? Thats a 6mm radius in the flesh. That’s what I’d consider close to perfect personally. There’s just enough “slack” in the route for the pickup to travel freely, without huge gaps.
Interestingly — and partly one of the reasons I dislike the idea of a P90 Strat® — Epiphone P90s only come in 50 mm, and very rarely, 47.5 mm string spacing. This is quite narrow on a Strat®, especially in the bridge position, so it’s unlikely you’ll get perfect string alignment with the poles.
It’s not a massive concern from a tonal perspective, but if string alignment is something that bothers you, it’s worth keeping in mind.
There is, undoubtedly, someone somewhere who’s made an Epiphone-sized cover in 52 mm spacing (and presumably commissioned the bobbins and base plates to make the pickup). But, you know, there’s always someone pushing the boundaries in pickups — so, a little cynicism is warranted. For me, I’ve only ever seen 50 mm / 47.5 mm as standard.
Gibson Size
Now, that’s not something I massively love, to be honest — a Gibson® P90 (cover) in our route (which is shaped for Epiphone® size) clearly shows the size difference. It fits, and with a bit of work centering the pickup, it’ll probably look okay, but it’s certainly not as neat as an “Epi in Epi” routing.
Moving forward, if there’s demand, we’ll probably offer the Gibson® routing alongside the Epiphone® one. But — and I can’t stress this enough — very few people actually know they’re different sizes. As always with this stuff, if no one’s asking, I’m a little in the dark about the level of demand.
Gibson Radii
And, because I like to be transparent about this stuff, here’s the main difference between the sizes — the radii in the corners. Gibson® covers are slightly more rounded at 7 mm, which almost clashes with the 6 mm in the Epiphone® route.
Interestingly, Gibson® P90s are always 49.2 mm. The same rules apply as with Epiphone®: it’s a little narrow for a Strat®. But if you’ve got your P90 in front of you and you’re unsure whether it’s Gibson® or Epiphone® size, measure the pole spacing. That should tell you what you’ve got — and, who knows, it might even give me enough of a nudge to actually make the Gibson® size route a reality!
Single Coils
“The Normal Stratocaster® Pickup”
It’s a bit of an oversimplification to call these just “single coils.” Strictly speaking, Telecaster®, Jazzmaster®, Jaguar®, and even P90 pickups are all single coils as well. But for whatever reason, when someone says “single coil,” most of us immediately picture a Strat® pickup.
Strat-style pickups are very much “Fender®” in how they’re built — and unmistakably Fender® in how they sound. I think most of us know what a Strat-style single coil does, so I’ll spare you a full-length deep dive.
That said, there are a few quirks unique to the Stratocaster® layout that are worth touching on, along with some interesting alternative options we offer.
Slanted Bridge
The “unofficial” story behind the slanted bridge pickup on the Strat® (and the Telecaster®) is straightforward: it’s angled to make the treble strings brighter and the bass strings darker. And honestly, that’s exactly what it does.
It’s so common that we barely even question it. I’d say 99.99% of SSS guitars — Fender or otherwise — have a slanted bridge pickup. So even if it sounds odd when you stop and think about it, it’s very much the norm.
It’s also worth remembering that the bridge pickup is rarely wired to a tone pot. This makes it a real “what you see is what you get” situation. With no easy way to tame it, that sharp, cutting slant can leave the classic Strat® bridge pickup a bit… maligned.
Reverse Slanted - Bridge
You’ll sometimes see this mod referred to as the “Voodoo Mod.” Bit on the nose, if you ask me — but hey, it’s catchy!
The idea is that it mimics the tones you’d get from a left-handed player using a right-handed Strat® strung upside down. Which, let’s be honest, basically means Hendrix.
Functionally, it does the opposite of a standard slanted bridge single coil: the low strings get brighter and tighter, while the high strings get darker and a little more pronounced.
Now, I don’t put a huge amount of stock in pickup pole staggering — but if you’re really chasing that sound, a left-handed stagger might help you get that extra 5%.
And just to help me sleep at night, an honourable mention to the late, great Dick Dale and Fender®. His signature Strat® features a reverse-slanted bridge pickup — which is undeniably cool. Though to be fair, Dick himself played a regular slant… but strung the whole guitar upside down. So technically it’s “right” — but now we’re really getting into the thin end of the niche wedge.
Neck and Middle "Standard"
Why? Honestly, I’m not sure — and I doubt it’s a particularly exciting story. Maybe it was A/B tested and “flat” just sounded better. Or maybe it was never questioned in the first place; the Telecaster® didn’t do it, and neither did most other early electrics.
It’s mostly academic, because (and I write this sentence more often than I care to admit): we like what we know. If you like a Strat®, chances are you like the sound of a flat neck and middle single coil.
Slanting those pickups would change the sound — but they’re not slanted, so they don’t. The high and low strings are picked up from the same position, which means the low strings tend to come through a little more prominently in the mix.
Neck and Middle "Slanted"
With single coils, there’s really only so much you can do with the idea, but one of the more popular “tweaks” is to have them slanted at the same angle as the traditional bridge single coil pickup. And yes — it’ll have the same effect: the high strings feel a little tighter, and the bass strings feel a little fuller.
Personally (and I’ve written this a lot in this write-up) — this is getting dangerously close to being wildly unfamiliar. We usually only like what we know when it comes to guitar tones, so if you’re hunting for a tone you’ll instantly recognise, tread carefully.
Interestingly (and this comes up every so often) — Jake E. Lee? His single coils were reverse slanted, meaning tighter bass strings and fuller highs.
Neck & Middle — Reverse Slanted
This one’s really just a case of filling in the gaps. Angle aside, it’s what I’d class as the Jake E. Lee setup — reverse-slanted single coils in the neck and/or middle positions.
There’s not a lot of mystery to it: take the usual bridge slant, flip it the other way, and stick it in the neck or middle slot. That’s the whole trick.
In terms of real-world examples, Jake E. Lee is the only player I can think of who’s genuinely used it and made it part of his sound. I did see Paul Gilbert playing an Iceman recently with the middle single coil slanted in reverse (and the humbuckers as well), and tonally it did exactly what you’d expect — tighter, brighter lows and slightly thicker high strings.
Do I love it? Personally, I’m not sold — but it’s different, it works, and it definitely earns its place on the list.
Bridge Flat
I hold this one in similar standing to slanting the neck and/or middle, frankly. It’s fine… if anything, it’s probably a little more familiar, because it’s not dissimilar to the way a Jaguar is laid out. Essentially, the bridge pickup is angled “flat,” just like the neck and middle traditionally are. Bass strings sound a little tighter, treble strings a little looser, and, without being overly negative, everything sounds a little foreign — but who knows?
I will say (and I’ve never tried it!) single coil–sized humbuckers might really benefit from being installed flat. It’s a bit “going round the houses” — partly because I don’t think single coil–sized humbuckers behave like their full-sized brothers purely because of the angle of install. There’s a whole mess of electrical issues going on too — but, maybe? It’s a vibe, isn’t it?
“Double Single Coils"
Double Single Coils were, frankly, rare. Off the top of my head, I can only think of Robbie Robertson and his Last Waltz Stratocaster as a “known” example, and even then, it’s a bit of a left-field case, because the guitar wasn’t widely recognized until Fender released it as a (very short-lived) signature model. It’s a beautiful guitar, so I can see why it gained attention, and the main point of note was the “Double Single Coil” concept.
While Robbie, if not the inventor, was certainly an early adopter of the idea, Fender actually dabbled independently as well, with the 1990s Stratocaster Ultra, which sported a Lace “Dually”—essentially two single-coil-sized humbuckers wired in series. The routing was a “flat” Double Single Coil setup (whereas Robbie’s is a slanted version).
Either way, Fender revisited the concept more recently with the Squier Contemporary series, which featured a slightly different setup again (slanted this time, with the single coils very close, but separated). It’s a nice idea, and it has potential, but there are a few considerations.
Firstly, electrically, it’s not advisable to wire a “Double Single Coil” as though it’s a standard bridge and middle combination. The pickups are so close together that, assuming the middle coil is reverse-wound/reverse-polarity, using them both in parallel will induce significant phase cancellation, making the output almost unusable.
It’s better to follow Robbie’s approach and wire the two pickups in series, so they essentially act as a humbucker. The result is big, beefy, and aggressive—but a little unfamiliar. With an inductance around 6–7 Henries, it may feel slightly “loose and lardy.” It’s something different, certainly usable, but don’t expect Gibson-style tones just because it uses two coils.
They do, too, bring up a few weird quirks, so, lets cover some of the finer points too.
“Double” Slanted
I’ve maybe muddied the waters a little speaking about the Ultra Strat and Squier’s take on the idea, so for 100% clarity, our “double single coil” looks like this: two single coils, side by side, as part of the same route.
It retains the ethos of what Fender® initially intended with the bridge pickup (which is really useful if you’re considering coil-splitting the pickups!) and, frankly, the rule of cool triumphs here. It’s what Robbie Robertson did, so we’ve carried that idea over too.
Note: the mounting screws — the route assumes you’re fitting two single coils, so that’s two screws for each.
“Double” Flat
This setup is closer to the old Fender Ultra idea — two single coils acting as a humbucker, but mounted flat, like a traditional full-size humbucker, rather than on a slant.
Just to be clear: we’re assuming you’re not using an early Lace Dually here. Those had a metal “conversion plate” joining the two pickups together, so they mounted with a single screw at the bottom (near the volume pot), rather than four individual screws.
Later Dually models changed again. They’re built on a Fender humbucker-style base — what we call a 3-screw mount — and are designed to drop into uncovered humbucker routes. Technically, they’re still just two single coils wired in series, but when it comes to mounting, you're better off treating them like a standard uncovered humbucker these days.
Tonally? The “double flat” setup is a bit of an unknown. By removing the slant (on the bridge), you’re naturally going to brighten the treble strings and darken the bass side — that much we can safely assume — but if you’re using regular single coils rather than anything purpose-built, it’s hard to make any confident predictions beyond that.
Doing It “Wrong”
If you’re chasing this setup, you’ve probably worked out you “need” a bridge pickup and a middle pickup — one standard wind, one RWRP. The obvious issue is that the bridge pickup will foul the middle unless you spin the middle pickup around to make it physically fit.
That solves the clearance problem just fine… but it does mean the pole staggering ends up “the wrong way round.”
Honestly? I don’t think it matters. Once you’re wiring them in series, the tone is going to be so unfamiliar anyway that a bit of odd string balance is the least of your worries. But if you’re treating this as a labour of love, I get why it might still bug you.
This same logic applies if you’re doing it with a neck and middle combination — the neck pickup is effectively “flipped” in the same way to clear the middle, with the same pole-piece quirk as a result.
Yes, it’s confusing. You're not going mad.
Under the Hood - Bridge
When I say “spin the middle,” this is what I mean: the bridge pickup sits as normal, but the middle pickup is rotated so it points up towards the neck. Nothing mysterious about it — though it’s worth noting that this setup does require a fairly substantial route.
If you want to go this way, there are absolutely no problems from a functional standpoint. It works just fine. You can even correct the pole staggering by using a left-handed stagger pickup in the middle position. In fact, this is — as far as anyone can tell — exactly what Robbie Robertson did back in the day.
Under the Hood – Neck
Running a “double single coil” in the neck brings the same headache as with the bridge: you’re effectively spinning the neck pickup, while the middle pickup stays in its normal orientation.
Ignoring pole staggering for a moment, the main issue is physical space. A standard neck route simply isn’t designed to take two single coils side by side, so you’re almost certainly going to run out of room.
Is it doable?
Yeah, absolutely — but expect a bit of woodworking. You’ll likely need to remove a small amount of timber from the pickup cavity to make it fit. It’s not a huge job, and if you’re lucky enough to have a swimming pool route under the pickguard, you might get away with minimal work. But if you’re trying this with “normal” single coils, go into it knowing that a chisel, router, or sanding drum may need to make an appearance.
Doing it Right
Personally, I like the pole staggering to be the “right” way around. It doesn’t necessarily save the idea for me — tonally, it’s just a bit too big for my tastes — but visually, it feels more intentional. It looks like a design that’s been thought through, rather than just “hey, let’s route out some more holes!”
Really though, this comes down to how much you want to invest in the idea. If you’re right-handed, chances are you don’t already have a left-handed pickup sitting in the parts box (and in this example, I’ve even used a side-loading pickup). That means you’re probably going to have to buy one.
And remember: you’re spending money to chase a sound that, realistically, you’ve probably only ever heard in the hands of one man. So if it’s worth anything — give it a go! You might love it. But my advice? Try it “wrong” first before throwing cash at it.
Refinement
And this is what it looks like under the hood if you’ve got access to every pickup under the sun — and the only band you ever listen to is The Band! A regular single coil sits in the bridge slot, paired with a side-loading single coil in the middle.
This way, you can match the pole staggering without spinning pickups around, and you also save a little space in the routing. It’s neat, tidy, and looks properly intentional.
It’s also a very clean way to wire the pickups in series. Here’s the basic idea:
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Connect the middle to the bridge
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Splice the wires
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Add a coil-split option
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Instead of hardwiring the splice, route it through a mini switch or push-pull pot.
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Flicking the switch breaks the series link, leaving just the bridge pickup active.
Simple, effective, and much more versatile — while still keeping that “double single coil” flavour intact.
Mini Humbuckers
Mini Humbuckers are, frankly, a little bit strange. As near as I can tell, they exist largely because Gibson had a surplus of P90 Les Paul bodies they couldn’t give away. To make use of the design, they acquired a relatively small jazz guitar manufacturer from New York to adopt their Mini humbucker design — which they then mounted in “rings” made from cut-down P90 covers.
Whatever the truth behind the story, that’s how Mini humbuckers became part of the mainstream, and how Epiphone ended up with them.
Basically, they’re smaller than “proper” humbuckers and somewhat limited in what they can do, coming in two main “flavours”:
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Traditional — with six exposed screw poles and a covered “rail” pole on the other coil. Almost always wound to 6K, sitting atop a bar magnet.
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Firebird — a completely enclosed cover with two bar magnets pressed into the coils. Weirdly, they don’t behave all that differently from the traditional version, considering how unusual the construction is. They’ve had a bit of a resurgence in recent years.
Personally, I’ve never been a huge fan. In my opinion, “once you’ve tried one, you’ve tried them all,” since the size and shape limitations make them all sound pretty similar. They’re a lot less defined than a normal humbucker, soupier under gain, but incredibly pleasing if you keep things clean and classy.
Interestingly, there’s a lot of confusion around size. Most Mini humbucker rings are designed to accept a 68 mm pickup, so technically 68 mm Mini humbuckers should exist. In practice, though, I’ve never seen one — my suspicion is that the pickups themselves are actually closer to 65 mm where it matters, and the “68 mm” spec only applies to the flared base.
In situ
I think it’s fair to say that, on the pickguard, it’s pretty clear there’s something not quite right with the routing, isn’t it? That route is 68.5 mm × 28.5 mm, with the correct radii in the corners — and, even I’ll admit, it’s a little gappy.
Sadly, I’m playing this a bit by ear. I’ve got covers (and pickups) from a few different manufacturers in front of me, and they’re all slightly smaller than 68 mm × 28 mm. That said, it seems the entire industry is working to those numbers, so I’ve got to fly with the wind a little and route our plates to match that, purely because there’s a very real chance your pickup will be exactly those dimensions.
In short, just because all of my examples are slightly under, doesn't mean all pickups are slightly under.
Good Company
And before everyone tells me, “Craig, that’s stupid — if the pickup is 65 mm long, then route the pickguards to match!” — I agree! Honestly, I do. But everyone else is working to 68 mm length. Remember those cut-down P90 covers? They’re assuming 68 mm — and, with the examples I’ve got here, we’re seeing the same gapping around the route.
Weirdly, even though the dimensions of the route are exactly the same, the gapping looks less. I assume it’s some trick of the eye, and the shadow gap hides a multitude of sins. If we deep dive a little (and, clearly, I have!) — we can see the same shadow gap on Gibson Les Paul Deluxe and even Firebirds, which gives further credibility to this being a fairly wide-ranging quirk.
Full Disclosure
I’m in a bit of a tricky spot here — I could, quite easily, tweak the routes on my end and make a mini humbucker cavity 65 × 27 mm (in the same way I could make a Gibson P90 route). The thing is, very few people actually measure these pickups. More often than not, the first you’ll know your Mini HB is smaller than expected is when you try to fit it into the route.
Honestly, it’s better to err on the side of a slightly bigger hole than a smaller one. It saves a lot of “What size is my mini humbucker? No clue, sorry!” emails, and, frankly, it aligns with how the industry tends to do things.
If there’s enough demand, I’m absolutely open to creating a more precisely sized route — but so far, it hasn’t come up. This approach keeps things simple and practical, without anyone losing sleep over it.
It CAN Be Done
OK, so (writing this in November 2025) — I was getting annoyed with the slightly oversized mini HB routing, so I made a second jig that’s the “correct size” for the covers and pickups I’ve got here.
While I won’t muddy the waters by listing it in the drop-downs, if you want it “tighter,” give me a shout on the contact page and we can make it happen. By default, we’ll route to the “normal/oversized” size, as everyone else seems to be doing — but, you know, at special request, we can go tighter.
Telecaster Pickups
I’ve got to give an old mate some credit here — Karl, if you’re reading this, fair play! You were the first person I knew who actually thought this would be a good idea.
Right then — I think this is something most of us have considered at one point or another: Tele pickups in a Stratocaster. All the things that make the Telecaster a great guitar, loaded into something that’s arguably a bit comfier, a bit more rock ’n’ roll, a bit more versatile.
And honestly? It’s not the worst idea at all. Tele bridge pickups have a lot more scope for variation — there’s more space for the coil, no cover limiting the height, and you can experiment with baseplates, resistance, and wire gauge. It’s fair to say there are dozens of viable Tele bridge pickup specs out there.
That’s not quite true for the neck pickups, though. They’re almost the opposite — smaller coils, typically limited to 43 AWG (or thinner), and that iconic metal cover restricts height. If there are dozens of Tele bridge options, there are maybe three or four neck variations worth talking about. It’s not a dead end, but go in with your eyes open. Great if you’re building a Strat-o-Tele hybrid, but tonally? There are better options than the traditional Tele “lipstick” pickup.
Now, most people won’t care one jot about that, because, let’s be honest, it’s the bridge pickup that everyone’s excited about. “All that Tele twang on a Strat?!” Well… here’s the thing: Telecaster pickups aren’t actually that different from standard Strat pickups. They’re usually a bit hotter, but not inherently “twangier.”
What’s really doing the heavy lifting on a Tele is the metal bridge plate the pickup is mounted in. (I’ve got the graphs if anyone wants to see them!) Being surrounded by that steel plate changes the pickup’s response — it adds snap and bite — and that’s something you just can’t fully replicate on a Strat.
So, full disclosure: it’s a cool mod, and yes, you can absolutely load Telecaster pickups into a Strat. But you’re probably not going to make it sound like a Telecaster. You’ll end up with something more like a muscular Strat — which isn’t a bad thing at all. There are other, perhaps better, ways to chase that sound, but that’s a topic for another day.
“Proper” Bridge Pickup
I think I’ve covered most of my main gripes with the idea above, so I’ll keep this bit to the facts.
Tele bridge pickups are physically larger than standard single coils. The pole spacing is wider (54 mm rather than 52 mm), and the traditional mounting angle is steeper than that of a Strat bridge pickup.
They don’t use a cover, and they’re mounted with a somewhat cumbersome three-screw setup — which, frankly, looks a bit odd. To make things even more fun, Tele bridge pickups aren’t as well standardised as typical single coils, so there’s a bit of variation in the top-plate dimensions. As a result, the route tends to be a little “slack” to accommodate them all. Nothing too drastic, thankfully, but worth being aware of — it’s not a tight fit.
It’s a Big Unit
Under the bonnet, we hit the real problem with this idea. Tele bridges are icebergs — bigger underneath than they are on top — and in this situation, that extra bulk is entirely redundant.
You’ll need a fairly expansive route in the body to accommodate the pickup’s base.
Better Idea
Now, I never wanted the pickguard customiser to turn into a thinly veiled “buy our pickups” pitch, but I’ve got to tread on my own toes a bit here (and risk repeating myself).
Tele bridges aren’t designed to fit in a Strat. It can be done — but you’re not going to end up with something that truly sounds like a Telecaster, and it’s a lot of work to get there.
Personally, if I wanted that “big, muscular single-coil” vibe and fancied experimenting with metal base plates, I’d be looking at a Strat-sized single coil — like our Yorkshire Jack. It’s exactly the same as the Telecaster pickup that shares its name: same wire, same magnets, same stagger, same base plate. In fact, it’s the reason I know Tele pickups don’t sound like Telecasters once they’re in a Strat!
I just think it’s a more elegant solution to the problem — or, if I were being cynical, a more elegant way of achieving the result you probably weren’t expecting anyway.
“Proper” Neck (and Middle)
I’m sometimes a bit down on the traditional “lipstick” Telecaster pickup — it’s hamstrung by its size, shape, and that metal cover. They all sound very similar (and I’ll die on this hill!). Forget resistance, magnets, even cover material — Tele lipsticks just sound like Tele lipsticks. They’re a little too warm, a bit wimpy, a bit ill-defined. They look cool, sure, but… well, the most common request we get for Tele pickups is: “Can you make my Tele sound like a Strat in the neck slot?” (We can!)
Now, I won’t browbeat anyone for wanting to go that route — and if your heart’s really set on turning a Strat into a Telecaster, a lipstick pickup is a no-brainer. But I’d strongly suggest thinking of it as a bit of a “warts and all” conversion. Unlike the bridge pickup, lipsticks will sound just like they do in a Telecaster — and, honestly, it’s a bit… uninspiring.
(I type this donning my tin helmet and awaiting the assault.)
Either way, in the neck and middle slots it’s as you’d expect — they’re mounted “flat,” just like on a Telecaster, using two height-adjustment screws either side. Again, there’s a bit of variation in the size and shape of Tele lipstick covers, so the routes are slightly oversized to avoid any fitting issues.
Neck Pickup in the Bridge
Right, to give a bit of balance to all this — lipsticks aren’t a complete write-off. I just think that, compared to most other single coils, they’re not quite as capable — and in a Strat, that really shows. For most jobs, a standard single coil will cover a lot more ground.
That said, there is some real charm to a lipstick pickup. They shine when you lean into their warm, woolly character — so think very clean cleans, or anytime you want to get away from “bright and biting.” Jazz tones? That’s where they come into their own.
The bridge version kind of sums that up. It’s not for everything, and I definitely wouldn’t run it as a straight replacement for a standard single coil — but it’s actually pretty usable. That opens up some interesting possibilities: three lipsticks, or even a lipstick bridge with a mini-humbucker neck… very jazz.
To keep things sensible (or as sensible as this stuff gets), we’re routing the bridge lipstick at the same angle as a normal Strat single coil.
Jaguar Pickups
A slightly left-field choice this one — but a really cool one all the same. Jaguar pickups look great on a Strat, and they’ve got a sound that’s got a bit more snap and bite compared to a regular single coil.
They share a lot in common with Strat pickups, but the big difference is the metal “claws” around the coil. They focus the magnetic field and scoop a touch of midrange out, which gives that lovely, bright, percussive tone — a bit surfy, a bit hi-fi, but still nice and musical. If you’re after something clean, jangly, and with a slightly tighter top end than a Strat pickup, these really deliver.
Fitting-wise, we’ve accounted for them properly here — they’re longer than a standard Strat single coil, and they use different mounting screws, but it’s all built into the customiser. Just choose the Jaguar option and we’ll route the guard accordingly.
There are a couple of little quirks to be aware of: height adjustment can be a bit more limited than a normal Strat pickup (since Jags sit flat to the guard rather than “hanging” from it), and they don’t drop straight into a standard Strat route. But, if you’re going for something that looks unique and sounds a bit sharper and more articulate, they’re a cracking choice.
Mounting
Right, here’s the thing: Jaguars weren’t designed for Strat pickguards, and it shows when it comes to mounting. On a Jaguar, pickups are surface-mounted — they sit flat on the body and the metal claws are screwed directly through the cover. Height is adjusted with those screws, aided by a tiny bit of foam underneath. It works fine on a Jaguar because the body and pickguard were designed around it.
On a Strat? Not so much. Standard Strat pickups hang from the guard with screws and springs underneath. That means
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Height adjustment is trickier — on a Strat guard, the pickup sits flat, so you’re limited to fiddling with foam or shims, which is far from elegant.
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Squaring it up is a pain — the pickup is longer than a Strat single coil, and keeping it perfectly straight on the guard is fiddly.
The Claw!
That metal claw around a Jaguar pickup? It’s not just decoration — it’s doing some serious tonal work.
Functionally, the claw acts a bit like a horseshoe magnet, similar to the way a Burns Trisonics base plate works. It effectively gives the pickup three magnetic poles, which shapes the string’s magnetic response in a unique way. This helps produce that bright, percussive attack Jaguars are known for, while still keeping the tone balanced.
On top of that, the claw:
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Focuses the magnetic field: Directs the pull toward the strings, giving a sharper, snappier response.
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Reduces stray interference: Enclosing the coil on three sides adds a touch of shielding — cleaner signal, less hum.
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Shapes the midrange: Scoops out a bit of mids, giving that jangly, chimey character without harshness.
So, it looks like a funky chrome frame, but it’s actually a clever bit of magnetic engineering. Take it off, and the pickup loses a lot of that distinctive Jaguar sparkle — it’s not just cosmetic, it’s core to the sound.
Neck? Forget It
Just to be clear — you cannot fit a Jaguar pickup in the Strat neck slot. It’s nothing to do with screw holes or mounting — it’s a straight-up routing problem.
If you place the pickup where it would sit in the correct position relative to the bridge, the body of the pickup actually overlaps the edge of the pickguard. There’s simply not enough room without major custom work.
So, while Jaguars are brilliant in the bridge or even middle positions, the neck slot is off-limits. Trying to force it there is just going to end in frustration — and a pickguard that doesn’t work.
Volume Knob Problems
Heads up — if you’re fitting a Jaguar pickup into a Strat pickguard, the volume pot cannot sit in the standard Strat position.
Why? The Jaguar pickup cover is longer than a Strat single coil, and if you try to put the pot in its usual spot, the knob literally collides with the pickup cover. Not ideal.
So, for proper fit and playability, the volume pot has to be moved slightly further away from the pickup. It’s a small tweak, but it makes all the difference — otherwise you’re fighting a knob that won’t turn and a pickup you can’t access properly.
Slanted Bridge
By default, Jaguar pickups sit flat on the guard — that’s the classic setup. But for the Strat customiser, we’re giving you the option to slant the bridge pickup, just like you would with a standard Strat single coil.
Slanting changes the tonal balance slightly: the bass strings get a touch more warmth and the treble strings a little extra bite. It’s subtle, but it can make the pickup feel more “stratty” under your fingers, without losing the distinct Jaguar snap and chime.
It’s a small tweak that gives you a bit more control over tone and feel, and it’s all built into the routing on the customiser — no hacks, no compromises. Flat still works perfectly, but if you want that classic Strat-style slant, it’s an easy way to fine-tune your sound.
Note - the photo here shows the "problem" with the volume pot in the Standard position too.
Filtertrons
Filtertrons are cool — like, undeniably cool. From the very first Gretsch versions in the 1950s through their reinvention in the ’90s with TV Jones, they’ve always carried this sort of counter-culture status — lurking just on the outskirts of PAFs, high-output humbuckers, and every “ever more stratty” single coil. They’ve found their home in the hands of some equally cool players too — Brian Setzer, Malcolm Young, Chet Atkins — and they’ve got a tone that’s completely their own.
From a simple point of view, they’re not quite as large as a full-sized humbucker, but a touch bigger than a mini-humbucker. Electrically (and internally), they’re a bit odd: fairly small coil geometry, but high inductance thanks to the larger poles and magnets. The result? They’re bright, raunchy, and somehow still well-behaved — quite the contradiction in terms!
English Mount
Thankfully, this is about as simple a write-up as it gets. Filtertrons come in two “styles” — we’re offering Strat plates with the English mount, which is just a fancy way of saying “hanging from the pickguard.” Honestly, it’s the best way to do it on a Strat.
Traditionally, Filtertrons are surface-mounted — usually with a goof ring around them to cover any questionable routing — and then propped up with a bit of foam. That works, but it can be a bit of a pain to adjust the heights. And since you’re shoehorning these pickups onto a Strat anyway, if you’re going to those lengths, I’d strongly suggest going for the English mount.
Surface Mount
And the opposite of English mount? Surface mount — the pickup is screwed directly to the body, with the height adjusted using foam underneath.
I wouldn’t go for it myself. It’s tricky to get the pickup perfectly square to the pickguard, and REALLY difficult to get the height just right.
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Colours
Ok, even I’ll concede this isn’t the most thrilling topic at this stage — but there’s a surprising amount of confusion around the various “off-white” pickguard colours. And seeing as we’re already ticking off pearls and tortoise shell variants, we might as well tackle the parchments, mints and creams too.
So, let’s get stuck in.
White
All our white plates use this exact shade — a fully opaque pigment with no translucency or ageing tint. It’s exactly what most people picture when they think “white pickguard”: clean, crisp, and pristine.
It doesn’t try to mimic vintage plastics or look “aged in,” so if you’re after a bright factory-fresh look — or you’re pairing it with bold or modern colours — this is the one.
Parchment
Sometimes sold as “aged white,” parchment sits one step in from pure white. It’s a touch darker, with a hint of cream or yellow in the mix — think along the lines of old newspaper or paper that’s had a few decades to mellow.
It’s a great middle ground if you don’t want the starkness of bright white, but you’re not ready to dive into full-on cream or mint territory.
Mint A
The lighter of the two mint shades. It’s not actually all that common on production guitars, which surprises a lot of people, because this is the tone most folks picture when they think “mint green.” It’s subtle, soft, and only just tinted — enough to take the edge off white without straying into cream.
Mint B
The “proper” mint green. Darker than Mint A, with a subtle grey undertone that gives it depth. Be warned — it does not photograph well and will often be corrected by cameras into something lighter or more vibrant than it actually is. In real life, it’s a rich, deep green, much closer to the discoloured nitrate plastics of the 1960s, which this colour originally sought to replicate.
Ivory
Ivory — sometimes called “Creme,” particularly in Gibson parlance — is a warm, buttery shade with a hint of orange. It’s not commonly seen on Fender-style pickguards, which makes it a bit special, but personally, I absolutely love the richness it brings to a build.
Black
Black is, well… black. There’s not a huge amount to say about it — it’s opaque, crisp, and very classy. I particularly like the contrast it creates on 3-ply pickguards with a white middle layer; it just works.
Mint Green Notes
Before we dive any deeper into colours, a few things are worth flagging about Mint Green — it’s a tricky shade and often comes across completely differently in photos.
First, if you’ve looked at the “real” photos of Mint A and Mint B, you’ve probably noticed they look almost identical. That’s not a mistake — cameras genuinely struggle to capture the subtle differences. They tend to auto-correct everything toward a washed-out Mint A, regardless of the actual plate.
So, why bother showing photos at all? Well, the unedited images highlight how misleading camera shots can be. From here, you have to trust the edited examples above, or the colour swatch in the pickguard customiser — that’s a very accurate representation of what the plates look like in real life.
The takeaway? Don’t rely on photos when judging Mint Green. If I’ve had this problem, so has everyone else. A quick search online will show you at least ten subtly different mint shades on Fender guitars — but in reality, Fender almost always used Mint B (with the exception of Fender Japan). Over the last 20 years, I’ve come across just four actual Mint Green shades: B, A, a very bright “snot” green, and a slightly lighter version of B that’s still pretty close.
Mint B
Unedited, Mint B looks nothing like this in real life. It’s a much darker green, with an almost greyish tint that gives it that classic, slightly aged 60s vibe.
Mint A
Mint A is actually quite close to this, though in real life it’s a bit more vibrant and not quite as “washed out” as the photo suggests.
Comparison
When Mint A and Mint B are photographed side by side, alongside a few other colours (in this case, White and Parchment), it provides a much clearer sense of the differences between the shades.
Ivory vs. Ivory/Black/Ivory
We actually carry two different Ivory plates. There is Ivory, available in a 3-ply Ivory/Ivory/Ivory version and a single-ply version, and we also have Ivory/Black/Ivory 3-ply, which is now obsolete but survives in old stock.
These are not the same colour. The Ivory/Black/Ivory plates will not match Ivory single-ply or Ivory/Ivory/Ivory plates. The I/B/I plates are closer to a nicotine yellow, whereas the I/I/I plates are much more of an orange “cream.”
Pearloids Explained
Pearloid pickguards are often lumped in with tortoiseshells, but they occupy their own, slightly shinier niche. They’re not as subtle as tortoiseshells — the swirls and patterns are more pronounced, with a pearlescent effect that catches the light beautifully. Historically, they’ve been a relatively straightforward affair: virtually all pearloid pickguards are made from PVC, and there isn’t a deep, mysterious backstory like some of the vintage materials.
What makes them interesting is less about origin and more about aesthetics. The colour and pattern variations are deliberate but consistent, making it fairly easy to anticipate how they’ll look on a finished guitar. Unlike tortoiseshell, which can shift dramatically from manufacturer to manufacturer, pearloid maintains a stable palette. That said, the swirl direction, density, and shine can give each plate a little personality — no two are ever perfectly identical.
In short, if you’re after a classic, eye-catching pickguard with a bit of sparkle, pearloid is a solid, no-fuss choice that’s stood the test of time.
White Pearl
White Pearl is the most common pearloid you’ll encounter, and its look is instantly recognisable: subtle, shimmering, and classic. Fun fact — pearloid was originally designed as a faux “mother of pearl,” meant to mimic the iridescent inner layer of oyster shells. The result is a clean, elegant pickguard that catches the light in a way that flat colours just can’t match.
Aged White Pearl
Aged White Pearl is actually more common than you might expect. Think of it as the pearloid equivalent of Parchment — slightly warmer, with a subtle creamy tint. The “pearling” is a bit tighter than standard White Pearl, with fewer blank spots between the reflective areas, giving it a more consistent, refined shimmer.
Grey Pearl
Grey Pearl isn’t my personal favourite. It started appearing a few years ago and was often misrepresented as “Black Pearl” in photos and marketing, but in reality, it’s nowhere near that dark. The grey tone gives a muted, subtle look, but it lacks the contrast and depth that makes other pearloids so appealing.
Avalon
Avalon is a relatively new pearloid pattern, and it gets much closer to the “mother of pearl” aesthetic that the original pearloids were trying to emulate. Instead of being broken into small reflective squares, the pattern flows with swirls and blotches, giving it a crisp, natural finish that really catches the light.
Abalone
If Avalon leans toward a mother-of-pearl look, Abalone is its more exotic counterpart, inspired by the iridescent inside of certain marine snail shells. The pattern is strikingly unique, favoring flowing swirls over the blocky reflective squares, giving it a vivid, eye-catching appearance.
Black Pearl
Black Pearl is always a bit contentious—it's not truly black, more of a dark grey. There is a slightly deeper version known as "Moto Pearl" (though tracking it down is another story), but both shades have their uses depending on the aesthetic you’re after.
Pearloid Quirks
Pearloid plates do have a few quirks of their own. While the material is relatively consistent, the way the “pearl” swirls are distributed can vary a lot from sheet to sheet. You might find sections with tight, dense pearling or areas that are more open and sparse. This isn’t a defect—just the nature of how the pattern is formed.
Additionally, colors can shift slightly depending on lighting and viewing angle, so a plate that looks crisp under one light may appear softer or more muted under another. It’s worth keeping this in mind when matching to existing finishes or other pickguards.
Shade Differences
When viewed on their own, pearloid plates can be tricky to compare, as the swirling patterns and reflections tend to dominate the eye. This is why side-by-side comparisons are so useful.
A good example shows Black Pearl and Grey Pearl next to each other, alongside Aged White Pearl and standard White Pearl. In this arrangement, the subtle differences in base color, contrast, and reflectivity become much clearer, helping you make a more informed choice.
Knobs
Pearloid pickguards present a unique challenge when it comes to matching knobs, tips, and covers, simply because the base color isn’t uniform. Here’s a practical approach:
-
Aged White Pearl pairs best with Parchment-colored plastics.
-
White Pearl and Avalon work well with standard White plastics.
-
Black Pearl doesn’t match true black knobs perfectly. In fact, it highlights the fact that Black Pearl isn’t genuinely black—but it’s about as close as you’re going to get.
3 and 4 Ply
Pearloid pickguards can be a bit confusing when it comes to ply count, because they don’t always follow the standard dark/light/dark pattern we’ve come to expect.
Essentially, the pearloid layer on the front of the plate counts as a ply. This means:
-
3-ply pearloid plates can appear as just 2 plys, especially on lighter pearls where the pearloid layer is semi-transparent and looks white.
-
4-ply pearloid plates often appear as 3 plys.
In this photo, you can just make out the individual plys and how they layer together.
Tortoise Shells
You’ve probably noticed that we do a huge variety of tortoise shell pickguards – and even then, we barely scratch the surface of the available styles.
Originally, tortoise shell pickguards were made from actual tortoise shell – pieces carefully shaped, joined, and polished until semi-transparent. Some of the earliest acoustic pickguards were made this way. Of course, nobody wants to go back to that practice, but people loved the look. When plastics came along in the early 20th century, they offered a much cheaper and more practical alternative. (Trade in hawksbill turtle shells didn’t become illegal until the 1970s.)
The first plastic tortoise shells were made from celluloid. It’s semi-transparent, with a kind of leopard-skin effect, and it looked gorgeous. Celluloid made its way onto guitars, mostly acoustics, and eventually electrics by the late ’50s and early ’60s. The problem? Celluloid is extremely flammable. Cutting it generates heat, storage is risky, and it’s generally unstable – prone to warping, shrinking, and colour changes under sunlight.
Today, tortoise shells are mostly made from Polyoxymethylene (more stable, but still flammable) or PVC (extremely durable, though it gives off toxic fumes if burned).
For modern pickguards, we typically work with five main variants (ignoring the rare, historical celluloid options). While celluloid still exists and looks incredible for historical accuracy, it’s extremely expensive, difficult to source, and high risk to work with. As a rough guide, sourcing a single celluloid plate could cost upwards of £150.
Classic
This is a funny one. For the longest time, it was the only tortoise shell we had access to, and honestly – it’s fine. You see it fairly often on mid-priced guitars like the Squier® Classic Vibe and Vintage Modified lines.
Personally, I think of it as a “cheat” tortoise shell, because it appears to be a screen print sandwiched between layers of PVC. That gives it a slightly flat look, but it’s very uniform. So, if consistency is your goal and you want all your tortoise shells to look the same, Classic is the way to go.
3 Ply Brown
Now we’re talking. Unlike the “flat layer” version, 3 Ply Brown is the real deal – multiple semi-transparent PVC layers (usually one yellow, one brown) overlaid to create that classic tortoise shell effect.
For whatever reason, the 3-ply version tends to show a little more yellow in the mix than the 4-ply, giving it extra depth and richness. If pressed, I’d say it’s my favourite of the tortoise shells.
4 Ply Brown
Slightly darker than the 3-ply version, the 4-ply shows less yellow bleed-through in the mix—presumably because the yellow layer is thinner. The overall effect is a richer, more subdued tortoise shell look, while still retaining that classic depth.
3 Ply Red
Much like the 3-ply brown, this version layers yellow and red PVC, one on top of the other. The principle is the same, but the result is a more vibrant, warmer tortoise shell, giving a slightly livelier appearance on the pickguard.
4 Ply Red
In the 4-ply red, the yellow layer is largely removed, leaving a deep, rich red that almost approaches a red pearloid. It’s clean, vibrant, and avoids the subtle yellow tinge you see in the 3-ply version — perfect if you want a striking, uniform red tortoise effect.
Celluloid
For completeness, here’s a look at a celluloid plate. It’s absolutely gorgeous, with incredible depth to the “shell” effect that PVC can’t quite replicate. That said, if you look closely, you’ll notice this Jazzmaster plate has warped significantly. It’s been stored under the same conditions as the PVC plates, but celluloid simply doesn’t age as well — beautiful, but far less stable.
A Quick Note on Returns for These Plates
These plates are made to order, based entirely on the specifications you choose—pot hole positioning, pickup routing, and any other tweaks. Because of this, they’re classed as custom work and fall under the relevant section of our Terms & Conditions.
Once we’ve made a plate to your chosen spec, it becomes non-returnable, non-cancellable and non-refundable. Even if the product page shows a “standard” configuration, that’s just a starting point—every plate is individually built to your selections.
Before hitting “buy,” please double-check that everything is exactly how you want it. We’ve made it as easy as possible to be confident in your order:
We want you to feel confident in your order—and we’re here to help if you have any questions.
Once it’s made, it’s yours: no returns, no refunds.
FAQs
Will this pickguard fit <INSERT GUITAR MODEL HERE>?
Alright, I’ve typed this out in emails tens of thousands of times, and honestly? The answer is still the same:
“I DON’T KNOW.”
No one really does—not with total, unwavering certainty. And here’s why:
1. The sheer variety of guitars
I (and any guitar tech, shop employee, or parts specialist) see a tiny cross-section of guitars each year. There are models I’ve never seen in the flesh, let alone held in my hands for a pickguard swap. Some makes and models won’t even come onto my radar until an email or call mentions them.
There’s no “Haynes manual” for pickguards. Even Fender® doesn’t publish a spec sheet for every Strat®, Tele®, or Les Paul®. Knowledge here is largely a hive mind thing—shared between techs, enthusiasts, and shop staff. I generally only know if a pickguard fits when someone tells me it worked (or didn’t). Feedback is everything.
2. Pickguards aren’t truly standardized
It’s a common assumption, but not entirely true. There are recognized specs—take Stratocasters®, for example: 1954–57, 1958–62, and 1963 onward. Mounting screw positions remain consistent in those ranges.
But even within those ranges, guitars can be slightly “off.” A hole might move 2 mm, a tremolo cavity might be 1 mm smaller, or a humbucker route could shift 5–6 mm. Sometimes these changes are factory experiments, sometimes they’re just quirks. By the next production run, everything might snap back to the standard.
So yes—a pickguard that fits one guitar of the same model may not fit another produced a week later.
What’s the best advice for checking fit?
-
Measure it yourself.
Click the Technical Specification tab for diagrams. Measure centre-to-centre on holes, edge-to-edge on the shortest sides, and allow a small tolerance for measurement error. It’s a two-minute job.
-
What if it fits physically, but screw holes don’t line up?
This happens more often than you think. Most aftermarket pickguards assume the “official” spec. If your guitar is out-of-spec, the screw holes might not match.
Options:
Option 1 – Modify your guitar:
Fill and redrill mounting holes (Epoxy works well), adjust routing if needed. Easy, tidy, and future pickguard swaps remain simple. Could technically reduce resale value, but practically? Rarely a problem.
Option 2 – Custom pickguards:
These do exist. A sheet of plastic is cut to match your individual guitar. They’re labor-intensive, expensive, and have a high failure rate. Expect a £100–200 job. Don’t fall for anyone offering to do it for £30—it’s not realistic.
“I’ve received my pickguard and it’s VERY scratched.”
Chances are, what you’re seeing isn’t actually scratches on the pickguard itself—it’s the protective plastic film applied to the surface during manufacturing and shipping.
This thin sheet is designed to shield your pickguard from scuffs, scratches, and dust while it’s being made, packed,
and shipped. It’s completely normal for this film to look a bit worn or scratched—the good news is, that means the pickguard underneath is still pristine.
What to do: Carefully peel off the protective film before installing your pickguard. You’ll reveal the flawless, shiny surface underneath.
If you do spot any marks after removing the film, please get in touch—we want to make sure every pickguard leaves here looking perfect.
Pickup Route - Mini HB/Blank/Mini HB Material/Composition - >85%
PVC,<10% methyl methacrylate , <3% Organotin , <1% Bis
(2-ethylhexyl), < 1% Pigment (Excluding bakelite plates)
Mounting Screw Config - 11 Hole Counter Sunk Pickup & Switch Bolts - Dome Head Weight - 95g Sealed with a protective sheet.  
SCHB Wiring Loom
This is an
SCHB wiring loom, built specifically to match the control layout you've designed under the "Customise Controls" section.
Rather than following a fixed factory specification, the loom is built around your chosen control layout. For example, if you've specified two controls instead of the traditional three, the loom will be wired as a
Master Volume and Master Tone, regardless of where those controls are physically positioned on the pickguard. If you've chosen a single control, the loom will be wired as a Master Volume only.
There are two important things to bear in mind with this wiring loom.
Firstly, it doesn't matter where the two pickups are positioned on the pickguard—only that there is
one single coil and one humbucker (or P90-style pickup). Whether you've designed a Bridge & Neck layout, Bridge & Middle, or Middle & Neck, the loom is built to suit.
Secondly, the loom isn't concerned with the exact pickup models you've chosen. A Telecaster® bridge pickup with a Mini Humbucker® neck? No problem. A Stratocaster® middle pickup with a Covered Humbucker® neck? Equally at home. As long as the pickup combination follows the SCHB format, the loom will work.
Because this is a mixed pickup configuration, there are a few additional technical considerations.
The loom is built around
500k CTS potentiometers, which are ideal for humbuckers and P90-style pickups. To ensure the single coil still "sees" a load much closer to the traditional 250k value, a resistor is switched into the circuit whenever the single coil is selected. This gives both pickup types a much more appropriate load without compromising either.
When using the middle switch position, the humbucker
must be coil-split, exactly as shown in the wiring diagram. If you're using a traditional 2-conductor humbucker, the loom will still function, but you'll need to install a small jumper between the two humbucker live terminals on the switch and ignore the red and white coil-split connections.
In this configuration, both humbucker coils remain active alongside the single coil, resulting in three coils operating together. This can produce significant phase cancellation and a noticeably thinner sound. For the best results, we strongly recommend using a
4-conductor humbucker, allowing the humbucker to split correctly in the middle position.
It's also worth ensuring that the
south (screw) coil of the humbucker—the coil that remains active when split—is opposite in magnetic polarity and electrical phase to the single coil. This provides the traditional hum-cancelling "in-between" sound that many players are looking for.
There are a few details that are open to interpretation, such as the tone capacitor and, occasionally, potentiometer values. If your chosen specification suggests a more appropriate combination, we'll contact you before building your loom to discuss the options. As standard, however, this loom is built using
500k CTS Audio Taper potentiometers and a 0.022µF Cornell Dubilier tone capacitor.
Your loom will also be wired to match the switch you've selected under the
"Wiring" section.
3-Way Switching
-
Pickup #1 (typically the Bridge pickup)
-
Pickup #1 + Pickup #2 (wired in parallel, with the humbucker coil-split)
-
Pickup #2 (typically the Neck pickup)
Where two tone controls are present, the loom is wired using the traditional Stratocaster® arrangement:
This isn't set in stone, and we're more than happy to accommodate alternative tone assignments if you have a particular preference. We've intentionally kept these options out of the customiser to avoid making the ordering process unnecessarily complicated, but if you'd like something different, simply let us know when placing your order.
Please note: This wiring loom does not include pickups. You'll need to connect your own pickups following the wiring diagram below.
As this is a traditional soldered (point-to-point) wiring loom, you'll need to solder:
- Your pickup connections to the circuit.
- The output jack (mono socket).
- The bridge/tremolo claw ground wire.
If you'd prefer to avoid soldering, our solderless wiring looms allow all of these connections to be made using screw terminals instead.
This is a
solderless wiring loom, so there's no soldering required.
Your pickups connect directly to clearly labelled screw terminals, making installation quick, straightforward, and completely reversible if you ever decide to change pickups in the future.
The output jack (mono socket) is already pre-wired, and the bridge ground is supplied on a replacement tremolo claw. Both are fitted to screw terminals and can be easily disconnected while feeding the wiring through the guitar's routing, then reconnected once everything is in place.
As with all of our wiring looms,
pickups are not supplied and must be connected during installation.
HBSC Wiring Loom
This is an
HBSC wiring loom, built specifically to match the control layout you've designed under the "Customise Controls" section.
Rather than following a fixed factory specification, the loom is built around your chosen control layout. For example, if you've specified two controls instead of the traditional three, the loom will be wired as a
Master Volume and Master Tone, regardless of where those controls are physically positioned on the pickguard. If you've chosen a single control, the loom will be wired as a Master Volume only.
There are two important things to bear in mind with this wiring loom.
Firstly, it doesn't matter where the two pickups are positioned on the pickguard—only that there is
one humbucker (or P90-style pickup) and one single coil. Whether you've designed a Bridge & Neck layout, Bridge & Middle, or Middle & Neck, the loom is built to suit.
Secondly, the loom isn't concerned with the exact pickup models you've chosen. A Mini Humbucker® bridge with a Telecaster® middle pickup? No problem. A full-size Covered Humbucker® bridge with a Stratocaster® neck pickup? Equally at home. As long as the pickup combination follows the HBSC format, the loom will work.
Because this is a mixed pickup configuration, there are a few additional technical considerations.
The loom is built around
500k CTS potentiometers, which are ideal for humbuckers and P90-style pickups. To ensure the single coil still "sees" a load much closer to the traditional 250k value, a resistor is switched into the circuit whenever the single coil is selected. This gives both pickup types a much more appropriate load without compromising either.
When using the middle switch position, the humbucker
must be coil-split, exactly as shown in the wiring diagram. If you're using a traditional 2-conductor humbucker, the loom will still function, but you'll need to install a small jumper between the two humbucker live terminals on the switch and ignore the red and white coil-split connections.
In this configuration, both humbucker coils remain active alongside the single coil, resulting in three coils operating together. This can produce significant phase cancellation and a noticeably thinner sound. For the best results, we strongly recommend using a
4-conductor humbucker, allowing the humbucker to split correctly in the middle position.
It's also worth ensuring that the
south (screw) coil of the humbucker—the coil that remains active when split—is opposite in magnetic polarity and electrical phase to the single coil. This provides the traditional hum-cancelling "in-between" sound that many players are looking for.
There are a few details that are open to interpretation, such as the tone capacitor and, occasionally, potentiometer values. If your chosen specification suggests a more appropriate combination, we'll contact you before building your loom to discuss the options. As standard, however, this loom is built using
500k CTS Audio Taper potentiometers and a 0.022µF Cornell Dubilier tone capacitor.
Your loom will also be wired to match the switch you've selected under the
"Wiring" section.
3-Way Switching
-
Pickup #1 (typically the Bridge pickup)
-
Pickup #1 + Pickup #2 (wired in parallel, with the humbucker coil-split)
-
Pickup #2 (typically the Neck pickup)
Where two tone controls are present, the loom is wired using the traditional Stratocaster® arrangement:
This isn't set in stone, and we're more than happy to accommodate alternative tone assignments if you have a particular preference. We've intentionally kept these options out of the customiser to avoid making the ordering process unnecessarily complicated, but if you'd like something different, simply let us know when placing your order.
Please note: This wiring loom does not include pickups. You'll need to connect your own pickups following the wiring diagram below.
As this is a traditional soldered (point-to-point) wiring loom, you'll need to solder:
- Your pickup connections to the circuit.
- The output jack (mono socket).
- The bridge/tremolo claw ground wire.
If you'd prefer to avoid soldering, our solderless wiring looms allow all of these connections to be made using screw terminals instead.
This is a
solderless wiring loom, so there's no soldering required.
Your pickups connect directly to clearly labelled screw terminals, making installation quick, straightforward, and completely reversible if you ever decide to change pickups in the future.
The output jack (mono socket) is already pre-wired, and the bridge ground is supplied on a replacement tremolo claw. Both are fitted to screw terminals and can be easily disconnected while feeding the wiring through the guitar's routing, then reconnected once everything is in place.
As with all of our wiring looms,
pickups are not supplied and must be connected during installation.
SCSC Wiring Loom
This is a
Two Single Coil (SCSC) wiring loom, built specifically to match the control layout you've designed under the "Customise Controls" section.
Rather than following a fixed factory specification, the loom is built around your chosen control layout. For example, if you've specified two controls instead of the traditional three, the loom will be wired as a
Master Volume and Master Tone, regardless of where those controls are physically positioned on the pickguard. If you've chosen a single control, the loom will be wired as a Master Volume only.
There are two important things to bear in mind with this wiring loom.
Firstly, it doesn't matter where the two pickups are positioned on the pickguard—only that there are
two single coil pickups. Whether you've designed a Bridge & Neck layout, Bridge & Middle, or Middle & Neck, the wiring loom will work perfectly.
Secondly, the loom doesn't really care what type of single coil pickups you've chosen. Traditional Stratocaster® single coils, Telecaster® pickups, and other low-inductance single coil designs are all electrically very similar, and are perfectly suited to the
250k CTS potentiometers supplied with the loom.
There are a few details that are open to interpretation, such as the tone capacitor and, occasionally, potentiometer values. If your chosen pickup combination suggests a more appropriate specification, we'll contact you before building your loom to discuss the options. As standard, however, this loom is built using
250k CTS Audio Taper potentiometers and a 0.022µF Cornell Dubilier tone capacitor.
Your loom will also be wired to match the switch you've selected under the
"Wiring" section.
3-Way Switching
-
Pickup #1 (for example, the Bridge pickup)
-
Pickup #1 + Pickup #2 (wired in parallel)
-
Pickup #2 (for example, the Neck pickup)
Where two tone controls are present, the loom is wired using the traditional Stratocaster® arrangement:
This isn't set in stone, and we're more than happy to accommodate alternative tone assignments if you have a particular preference. We've intentionally kept these options out of the customiser to avoid making the ordering process unnecessarily complicated, but if you'd like something different, simply let us know when placing your order.
Please note: This wiring loom does not include pickups. You'll need to connect your own pickups following the wiring diagram below.
As this is a traditional soldered (point-to-point) wiring loom, you'll need to solder:
- Your pickup connections to the circuit.
- The output jack (mono socket).
- The bridge/tremolo claw ground wire.
If you'd prefer to avoid soldering, our solderless wiring looms allow all of these connections to be made using screw terminals instead.
This is a
solderless wiring loom, so there's no soldering required.
Your pickups connect directly to clearly labelled screw terminals, making installation quick, straightforward, and completely reversible if you ever decide to change pickups in the future.
The output jack (mono socket) is already pre-wired, and the bridge ground is supplied on a replacement tremolo claw. Both are fitted to screw terminals and can be easily disconnected while feeding the wiring through the guitar's routing, then reconnected once everything is in place.
As with all of our wiring looms,
pickups are not supplied and must be connected during installation.
SCSCSC Wiring Loom
This is an
SCSCSC wiring loom, built specifically to match the control layout you've designed under the "Customise Controls" section.
The loom follows your chosen control layout rather than a fixed factory specification. For example, if you've chosen a two-control layout instead of the traditional three controls, the loom will be wired as a
Master Volume and Master Tone, regardless of where the controls are physically positioned on the pickguard. If you've chosen a single control, the loom will be wired as a Master Volume only.
Because this loom is being built onto a 1983-Modern Pickguard, using 3 single coil pickup routes - we will build this loom up using 250k "Vintage Audio Taper", Split shaft CTS pots, and a 0.0.022µF Cornell Dubilier capacitor, and a short thread Swiftcraft Mono Socket.
Your loom will also be wired to match the switch you've selected under the
"Wiring" section.
5-Way Switching
-
Bridge
-
Bridge + Middle (parallel)
-
Middle
-
Middle + Neck (parallel)
-
Neck
3-Way Switching
-
Bridge
-
Middle
-
Neck
Where two tone controls are present, the loom is wired to the traditional Stratocaster® arrangement:
This isn't set in stone, and we're happy to accommodate alternative tone assignments if you have a particular preference. We've intentionally kept these options out of the customiser to avoid making the ordering process unnecessarily complicated, but if you'd like something different, just let us know when placing your order.
Wiring Diagram
Please note: This wiring loom does not include pickups. You'll need to connect your own pickups following the wiring diagram below.
As this is a traditional soldered (point-to-point) wiring loom, you'll need to solder:
- Your pickup connections to the circuit.
- The output jack (mono socket).
- The bridge/tremolo claw ground wire.
If you'd prefer to avoid soldering, our solderless wiring looms allow all of these connections to be made using screw terminals instead.
This is a
solderless wiring loom, so there's no soldering required.
Your pickups connect directly to clearly labelled screw terminals, making installation quick, straightforward, and completely reversible if you ever decide to change pickups in the future.
The output jack (mono socket) is already pre-wired, and the bridge ground is supplied on a replacement tremolo claw. Both are fitted to screw terminals and can be easily disconnected while feeding the wiring through the guitar's routing, then reconnected once everything is in place.
As with all of our wiring looms,
pickups are not supplied and must be connected during installation.
...
HBHB Wiring Loom
This is an
HBHB wiring loom, built specifically to match the control layout you've designed under the Customise Controls section.
Rather than following a fixed factory specification, every loom is built around the control layout you've created. For example, if you've chosen a two-control layout instead of the traditional three controls, your loom will be wired as
Master Volume / Master Tone, regardless of where those controls are physically positioned on the pickguard. If you've chosen a single control, the loom will be wired as a Master Volume only.
One important thing to remember is that this loom doesn't really care what type of pickups you've selected. Whether you've designed a traditional
HH® layout, a P90® bridge with a Mini Humbucker® neck, or something even more unusual, electrically they all require the same style of circuit and are generally best suited to 500k CTS potentiometers.
So, technically, this isn't strictly an "HH wiring loom" at all—it's really a wiring loom for
any two-pickup configuration that traditionally uses 500k controls. "HBHB" is simply a much easier way to describe it!
There are a few details that are open to interpretation, however. The tone capacitor—and occasionally the potentiometer values—are good examples. If your chosen pickup combination would benefit from something different, we'll contact you before building your loom to discuss the options. As standard, this loom is built using
500k CTS audio taper potentiometers and a 0.022µF Cornell Dubilier tone capacitor.
Your loom will also be wired to match the switch you've selected under the
Wiring section.
3-Way Switching
-
Bridge
-
Bridge + Neck (parallel)
-
Neck
Where two tone controls are present, the loom is wired using the traditional two-humbucker arrangement:
This isn't set in stone, and we're more than happy to accommodate alternative tone assignments if you have a particular preference. We've intentionally kept these options out of the configurator to keep the ordering process as straightforward as possible, but if you'd like something different, simply let us know when placing your order.
Wiring Diagram
Please note: This wiring loom does not include pickups. You'll need to connect your own pickups following the wiring diagram below.
As this is a traditional soldered (point-to-point) wiring loom, you'll need to solder:
- Your pickup connections to the circuit.
- The output jack (mono socket).
- The bridge/tremolo claw ground wire.
If you'd prefer to avoid soldering, our solderless wiring looms allow all of these connections to be made using screw terminals instead.
This is a
solderless wiring loom, so there's no soldering required.
Your pickups connect directly to clearly labelled screw terminals, making installation quick, straightforward, and completely reversible if you ever decide to change pickups in the future.
The output jack (mono socket) is already pre-wired, and the bridge ground is supplied on a replacement tremolo claw. Both are fitted to screw terminals and can be easily disconnected while feeding the wiring through the guitar's routing, then reconnected once everything is in place.
As with all of our wiring looms,
pickups are not supplied and must be connected during installation.
Parts Specifications Weight - 21g Screw Thread - #6-32 MaterialsFrame and Arm - Steel Board - Bakelite Terminals - Brass
Pots
Knob Shaft - 5.9mm, knurled
Tolerance - +/- 10%
Supplied with 1 Mounting Nut, 1 Washer and 1 "Star" washer
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